Are Mexicans famous for their potato dishes? Do they listen to pan flute music? And what is their connection to Che Guevara, the late Cuban revolutionary leader of Argentinian descent?
These questions and others both bemused and plagued me recently when I checked out Kyiv’s newest “Mexican” restaurant – better make that Kyiv’s newest Mexican-Peruvian-Native American-Greek-Ukrainian restaurant
In fact, questions about Potato House begin before you walk in the door. For example, what is the relevance of the giant sculptured shark jaw that is the centerpiece of the street-side patio? The restaurant’s logo is equally confusing – with the profile of an American Indian under the name Potato House. “Corn House,” “Rice House,” “Refried Bean House” – a lot of alternative names would have made more sense.
Americans expecting some version of Taco Bell with cheap, reasonable Mexican food will come away disappointed. On the other hand, Ukrainians looking for an introduction to Mexican-Latin American cuisine will find Potato House affordable, intriguing and fun.
The eclectic fast food eatery is like a roller coaster with endless surprises.
The menu is divided into four categories: salads, hot dishes and potato toppings, and drinks and desserts.
The salad selection is meager, offering basic olivier (Hr 2), Greek (Hr 4) and black olives in oil (Hr 4.50).
The dessert section includes several pastries. Espresso (Hr 3.50), a half-liter of Obolon or Slavutych draft beer (Hr 3.50) and Heineken (Hr 10) make up the drink selection.
The hot dishes include a plain baked potato (Hr 2), beef burrito (Hr 3.50), a brinza cheese burrito (Hr 2) and barbecued ribs (Hr 6). There’s also chili con carne (Hr 5.50) and garnishes of corn and red cabbage (Hr 4 each).
With a name like Potato House, I was expecting to load up the spuds with the works – sour cream, chives and bacon bits. Therefore, I was disappointed when all I had to choose from was cheese with a selection of garlic, nuts, greens or tsetsiki (Hr 2) as well as a Peruvian or a white wine sauce for Hr 3.
Ordering and receiving our food was time consuming because of the choose-your-own-toppings method – a relatively new approach for Ukrainians. Nobody knew quite what to order, how the system worked or the quantity of the portions.
There were a few gems on the menu, however. The chili, served in a brown-patterned bowl, was pleasingly spicy and consisted of big chunks of beef, potatoes and lima beans in a zesty tomato sauce. After sampling it, I instinctively looked around to see if any Ukrainian patrons – famous for their tender taste buds – were turning red in the face and screaming for water.
The ribs also proved a success – and a bargain. Referred to as “sweet meat” by my Ukrainian colleague, the tender pieces doused in a sugary barbecue glaze easily slid off the bone.
Potato House’s flagship burrito typified the random nature of the restaurant. Served in a ceramic bowl shaped like a cowboy hat, the burrito is more like a fajita. It comes with a choice of beef or cubes of brinza cheese plus tomatoes, sauce and an herb spread that looks deceptively like guacamole, but isn’t. It falls well short of Mexican standards, but diners clearly were having a blast assembling their “burritos” following the instruction cards provided.
In attempting to bridge the cultural divide, Potato House has managed to create a rift. Nearly every Westerner comes away with a chuckle at the absurdity of the incongruous menu and decor, while nearly every local gives it two thumbs up.
Nibbles
On July 6, the latest Uncle Sam’s Group creation, Uno Pizzeria, opened its doors. Located next to Golden Gate Irish Pub and Restaurant, this latest restaurant fixture at Zolota Vorota offers six types of pizzas with a choice of toppings.
