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There is an art to a good hot dog. It’s not just the dog itself, or the bun, or the various toppings. It is a combination of them all. For what, without a soft bun, is a simple dog?  And without condiments, what’s the point?

A dog’s got to have it all. A soft bun, either toasted or steamed, but not dry and crumbling like an old loaf of bread. The dog itself has to have some flavor – and not just taste like some shriveled up, dried out piece of jerky. It can be either boiled or grilled, but not floating in cold water, as you might find in some dog stands around the city.

And finally, the toppings. While in Kyiv you will be hard‑pressed to find a creative dog master piling on the spicy carrots as they do in Yalta, Odessa or Lviv, the cabbage mixture that is the staple here has to have its own characteristics. It can’t be just shreds from a recently cut cabbage. Let’s face it, if you are going to throw cabbage on top of a piece of meat whose origins are uncertain, it can’t be dry and boring. It’s got to be wet and mixed with some vinegar and green onion. On top of that, the customer has to have a full assortment of choices of condiments, which include ketchup, mayonnaise, and mustard.

Kyiv has plenty of hotdog stands, especially along Khreshchatyk. But to get a real dog, like the kind you remember from the carnivals of your childhood, you’ve got to head to Kontraktova Ploshcha in Podil. Here, kiosks serve up not just juicy dogs, but fat, greasy fries and cold beers to wash it all down.

In particular, the white kiosks across from where the trams stop serve up dogs that surpass those served at other stands throughout the city. These dogs actually fill up the bun, instead of getting lost in the dry cabbage‑salad toppings and sun‑heated mayonnaise. And while they tend to be mushier than the Oscar Meyer variety, the size makes all the difference. Here you’ll find fresh cabbage salad toppings that aren’t so crisp that they lack taste.

And toppings – ask and you shall receive. And they have it all, ketchup, mayo and spicy Ukrainian mustard. We even asked for – and received – extra mustard, without having to shell out extra kopeks.

But don’t just stop with the dog. Order up the fries served in a cone, just like at the county fair. And don’t forget your Slavutych to wash it down.

Kontraktova ploscha metro

Look for the white kiosk with patio chairs and stand‑up booths across from where all the trams stop. There is a small, handwritten “hot dog” sign on the kiosk window.