Ukraine is a nation inextricably linked to the production of wheat (pshenichne), yet the domestic production of wheat beer has only recently become a phenomenon. And, as it would for all worthy cultural phenomena, the Best Of team responded to the call to find the most worthy of the wheat...
t.
When the call went out to assemble a Best Of crew to taste the unfiltered wheat beers on offer, it didn’t take long to attract a crowd. That says something about the thirsty nature of the intrepid Best Of staff, but also about the immense popularity that that particular beer variety has garnered over the past few months.
The idea of taste testing the products had been brewing for a while, but fermented only when the market matured. At the beginning of the year, the only unfiltered wheat beers on the market were produced by Russia’s Baltika, Donetsk’s Sarmat and Chernihivske.
We dismissed those calling for an early tasting as simply looking for an excuse to drink beer. That’s no crime, but we felt a higher sense of duty to the public. When the market took off with the appearance of three more competitors, we declared that the field was ready, and the harvest could begin. It was time to separate the wheat from the chaff and choose a standout, if one existed.
Aside from the aforementioned “old-timers” of the regional wheat (or Weiss) beer group, beers have appeared from Obolon and Slavutych in the last six months, as well as from Etalon, another Russian brand.
With so many brands from which to choose, the taste test had to be conducted blindly. The Best Of team – two women and six men – gave each beer one overall score out of 10 possible points, based on criteria including head/foam, aroma, taste, finish and overall quality. While our testers guessed – more often than not incorrectly – at the identities of the beers they tasted, the guesswork played no part in the rating system.
Worst of the wheat
Our panel’s least favorite, by a wide margin, was Obolon Pshenichne.
One reviewer noted that this brew tastes considerably better when it’s from a keg than when it’s bottled. We, of course, were drinking from bottles.
Of the eight Best Of panelists, one gave Obolon’s entry a second-place vote, while two others gave it the third-place nod, but the rest scored it dead last of the six brews in our trial. Obolon was variously described as “flat,” “old-tasting,” “not really drinkable,” and “downright awful, with a very strong aftertaste.” Obolon may be the choice of millions of Ukrainians for its regular (and most-inexpensive) lager beer, but perhaps Kyiv’s biggest brewer should stick to the barley and forget wheat.
The next lowest-ranked was Slavutych, surprisingly putting both of the nation’s biggest brewers solidly at the back of the pack. Slavutych makes a range of beers – dark, strong, light, red, and others – and entered its wheat beer into the market with a virtually under-the-radar ad campaign. In fact, few of the Best Of tasting panelists were even aware that the company made a wheat beer. After reviewing our results, Slavutych may want to throw in the bar towel, or head back to the lab for further refinement.
Despite three second-place votes, the consensus was that Slavutych Biyle (White), was so light in taste and color that it resembled a lager, albeit one with a disagreeable, even bitter, aftertaste. One panelist wrote that the beer lacked character; another that it “tasted spoiled.”
“It’s got dirty water syndrome,” he remarked. “No down the hatch here. More like down the drain.”
The fourth-place finisher was Baltika #8, the Russian brewer’s long-standing offer for wheat beer consumers.
Arguably as well-known in this category as Chernihivske’s Biyle, Baltika #8 struck a pair of panelists as something to look forward to. The tasters noted that, all around, they preferred the brand to Chernihivske. But during the blind tasting, Baltika garnered just one first-place vote: Without a shiny yellow label to steer them, its avowed fans couldn’t tell by taste.
In fact, Baltika’s lone first-place ballot came from a panelist who’s not a regular beer drinker. Baltika also managed a vote for second and a few thirds. Our Best Of aficionados offered mixed reviews: “strong taste,” “weak taste,” and a “combination of Pine-Sol and two-day-old apple juice.” Maybe it was just a bad batch.
A head above the rest
Finishing third, but well behind the leaders, was Sarmat’s Pshenichne.
Two years ago, Sarmat surprised the Best Of team in the lager beer category, but this time it was not to be. To its credit, Sarmat managed two firsts, a second and a few thirds.
“This is for people who want to enjoy beer and taste it good,” wrote one. While it was criticized for not being wheaty enough, for tasting flat and for its slightly acidic taste, Sarmat also received praise: “Refreshing,” wrote one reviewer. Others singled it out for having a “good wheat taste.” “It’s pretty alright,” one commented.
The real surprise was Etalon’s second-place finish.
The Russian brewer has done its homework, and come up with a well-crafted brew and a crafty publicity campaign to match: Etalon’s blue and red label is a near-perfect copy of the label for Germany’s Erdinger wheat beer. The taste is similar as well.
Is Etalon rebottling Erdinger? Unlikely, but the recipe is uncannily similar.
Etalon missed being named our top pick by just one third-place vote, having collected as many firsts and seconds as the champion. Etalon was noted as being wheaty, drinkable and having the right amount of sweetness in the aftertaste.
“Definitely Weiss-beerish. A brewer definitely trying to break into the Weiss beer market,” one reviewer wrote.
But the overall winner was Chernihivske Biyle.
Considering this beer’s popularity among Ukrainian consumers, had it been around during Soviet times, it’s possible that this country would be known for making traditional toasts with wheat beer rather than vodka. Best Of team members were effusive with praise for Chernihivske, and all members save one rated it as either their first-, second- or third-place entry.
“I like this. Very easy to drink,” wrote one panelist. “Clean, balanced taste,” wrote another.
“Sweet and fresh, with good foam,” penned one of the ladies. Another opined that it “tastes a bit like [Belgian wheat beer] Hoegaarden, but just a bit off. The finish is clean.”
With such high praise, how could Chernihivske improve its beverage? The Best Of team suggests that it take a cue from the water business: home delivery.
Chernihivske Biyle.
(by Sun Interbrew Ukraine)
