Genatsavale named Kyiv’s best Georgian eatery
One of my favorite pastimes has always been trying new foods, but I had never tasted Georgian food before coming to Kyiv. Even while living in Los Angeles—which I would argue is the U.S.’s culinary capitol—I never even came across a Georgian restaurant. Here, Georgian restaurants are everywhere—and I am so glad they are.
Getting a taste of Georgian cuisine has been a real treat. What I have enjoyed the most is the incredibly flavorful mixture of spices used in the dishes. I am partial to several Georgian dishes. For appetizers, I recommend trying Khinkali, which are large meat dumplings spiced with caraway seed and chili pepper, along with Khachapuri—a tasty, gloriously unhealthy Georgian staple. Khachapuri is basically flat bread baked in cheese and butter. My favorite type comes with a semi-raw egg resting on top of the stretchy, molten cheese. To add a bit of protein and general goodness to your meal, try some Lobio, which is a flavorful bean dish made with a mixture of spices and other ingredients, like onions. I have tried a few different takes on this dish, all of which have been delicious.
For main courses, I definitely suggest trying the Chakhokbili, a Georgian specialty made from a combination of chicken, tomatoes, onions, and parsley.
As a delightful touch to Georgian cuisine, some dishes come sprinkled in pomegranate seeds.
Not to mention that there will inevitably be a list of great Georgian wines to savor with your meal.
Georgian restaurants in Kyiv are as various as they are numerous. In general they seem to be pricey compared to other types of eating establishments. If you are looking for a restaurant with simple decor, a relaxed atmosphere and good food, you could try Old Tbilisi. Gorets has pretty good food, if pricey, and a highly stylized decor based around the concept of filling every possible nook with kitschy, folk paraphernalia.
In the opposite direction are some pricey, up-scale options. Kazbek is a glitzy, sleek eatery that always has a row of shiny, black vehicles overflowing onto the sidewalk. It is also connected to a casino and usually has a gas-guzzler perched ostentatiously outside as gambler-bait. I stumbled in once with a friend for lunch. I remember the food being pretty decent, but felt stifled by the atmosphere and the crowd it seemed to cater to.
On the elegant side is Tiflis, an airy, Ritz-Carlton-esque restaurant with a polished, attendant waitstaff and nicely presented dishes. Prices are on par with most other Georgian restaurants and there is a large selection on the menu. A dish of mandarin slices, presented as a complimentary treat at the end of our meal, left me with a nice impression of the place.
Choosing which restaurant makes “Best of” is very difficult given these next two contenders. Both have phenomenal Georgian cuisine and come highly recommended. The first is Mimino, an old, widely-adored favorite. The restaurant’s interior is comfortable and tasteful, with sturdy, wooden fixtures and traditional Georgian rugs adorning the lightly painted walls. There is a fireplace in one room—a very pleasant feature during a Kyiv winter. On top of some of the most delicious Georgian food, the service was also very good— something that you don’t find so often in Kyiv. My companion brought to my attention that the waitstaff wore uniforms resembling those of flight attendants. Mimino is probably the most expensive Georgian restaurant I have tried, but regardless, it is worth it.
Topping my pick for “Best of” is Genatsvale, located, coincidentally, just a few paces up and across the street from Mimino in Podil. While Genatsvale’s simple, unremarkable decor doesn’t compare to Mimino’s, the place won my affection with its intensely flavorful, savory dishes, affordable prices and friendly service. The food at Genatsvale beats that of Mimino by a hair and comes at a much lower price. For instance, you can enjoy Khinkali dumplings for Hr 30 and chicken Chakhokbili for Hr 35 (compared to Hr 49 and 69, respectively, at Mimino). Due to my student-sized budget, high-quality food for a reasonable price always wins my affections. But whatever your budget, Genatsvale is definitely worth a visit.
Genatsvale (18 Voloska, 331-3434). Open daily 10 a.m. till 11 p.m.
