Deciding on Kyiv's best Caesar salad isn't easy, since there are so few good ones
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We asked our readers which restaurant in Kyiv serves the best Caesar salad. We certainly got a variety of responses – enough to name a winner – but we also stirred up a lot of angry feelings and upset stomachs in the process.
The Caesar salad, which was invented by Italian restaurateur Caesar Sardini (and not the ancient Romans) in Tijuana, Mexico, in 1924, is fairly simple. It consists of big hunks of fresh romaine lettuce, seasoned croutons, and a rich dressing containing garlic, egg yolks, anchovies and olive oil, and is topped with parmesan cheese shavings. As several readers attested, it shouldn’t have anything in common with Ukrainian salads smothered in mayonnaise, such as the “Olivier” or the “Dniester” varieties.
The following response from a female reader, though somewhat drawn out, was typical of what we found in our inbox after the polls closed last week:
“None. There is not a single restaurant in this town that knows what a Caesar salad consists of. All so-called Caesars here come with ham, or at least some variety of inappropriate meat, and none are made with romaine.
“What’s worse, no one here has ever heard of parmesan cheese, which really makes a Caesar delicious. My advice: stick to Greek salads in Kyiv, and save yourself the disappointment.”
Another reader couldn’t name anyplace that served the best, or “classic” Caesar, but he sure did tell us where not to find this simple, if too often corrupted, salad in Kyiv.
“Whatever is the best, it’s certainly not Shato [sic] on Khreshchatyk,” he wrote. “They take ‘creamy’ to a new level and put mayo on rather than a dressing. Blech.”
Another reader shamed a different restaurant for its take on this summer standard.
“The hands-down worst Caesar salad is O’Brien’s,” he began. “The mayonnaise-drenched plate of bacon is usually accompanied with a small piece of tomato and, perhaps, a piece of wilted lettuce. If anyone votes for O’Brien’s, they should be disqualified from ever voting again.
Unlike the previous respondent, this gentleman did offer his thoughts on who serves the city’s best.
“Arizona’s and TGIF’s both are very good. In head to head competition, I have to vote for AZ’s because of the much better service.”
Some readers gave up altogether.
“Most of the restaurants here don’t make the salad properly, so I have stopped trying it a long time ago,” said this one.
“I will be very surprised if you find a good Caesar salad in Kyiv venues,” said yet another respondent, “but for your information I have attached a rough draft of a recipe.” More on that later.
Incidentally, one reader, who will remain anonymous, did vote for the O’Brien’s Caesar. This voter won’t be banned from voting in future, but perhaps should take a refresher course under the guidance of our above respondent.
Despite all the acrimony, there were some respondents who actually did find a Caesar to their liking in Kyiv. Some of them weren’t without criticisms of other restaurants, which just goes to show that more work needs to be done in this culinary area (Kyiv chefs take note); but at least some people feel the salad isn’t a complete loss.
Votes came in from here and there for the capital’s best Caesar: for Belle Vue; for Golden Gate; for a place called Memento near the Circus (as that reader helpfully pointed out – we’ll give that one a try now that our interest has been piqued); for Le Grand Cafe; and for a few others as well.
Of the places that were strongly recommended, all happen to have an American theme or bent to them.
Sam’s Steak House, located somewhat near the train station, is often talked about for its porterhouse and T-bone steaks, but in this poll the restaurant received praise from a reader who evidently finds the Caesar salad they serve there also worth mentioning. That’s not illogical, since a Caesar is one of the great New York City steakhouse appetizers.
“People, you just touched my holy item!” replied one reader. “Sam’s Steak House is the best place I ever tried Caesar salad! Yamiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii!” We hope no yams were actually added to this Caesar.
Ex-pat standard T.G.I. Friday’s near Bessarabska Square has been voted as having the city’s best margarita, good burgers and fine French fries. One reader testified to its having a good take on the Caesar salad. She too wasn’t without complaints about the dearth of good Caesars in the city.
“No doubt, Friday’s,” she began. “I’ve had it in other places and there’s either not enough dressing or the dressing is all wrong. Or they put a bunch of weird vegetables in it.”
As it turned out, only one restaurant was able to claim top honors in this poll: Arizona BBQ, which was recently voted as having the best burgers in town.
It might have been a case of vote-stacking to side with AZ – we had to ignore the owner’s shameless vote for his own establishment – but the fact remains that votes count, and the final tally went in favor of AZ. [This note should not be lost on hopeful presidential candidates.]
Results:
1. Arizona BBQ
2. T.G.I.Friday’s
3. Nowhere.
Others receiving votes: Pantagruel Osteria, Pechera (the Cave), Stena (the Wall).
This week’s winner is Larissa N. Talpash Zyla. Congratulations! Contact Vika Barchenko at the Post to claim your prize.
For a good Caesar salad recipe, see www.marthastewart.com (she may be going to jail, but not for her Caesar salad). For good romaine lettuce, try Bessarabsky Market, Volodymyrsky Market, or Furshet grocery stores. Still can’t find it? Neither can we.
