Now the former Soviet republic is waiting for the tourists to arrive
Latvia – a former Soviet republic without the edge – is like Eastern Europe for beginners. Its geographic isolation and historical affiliation with Central Europe and Scandinavia have spared it from the visible marks of Soviet control. Even during the days of the Soviet Union, Ukrainians considered a visit to Latvia as a trip “abroad.”
Despite a national economy that is only marginally better than that of Ukraine, Riga has all the scrub and polish of Prague. The city’s old town is a thriving social and cultural center. In place of Kyiv’s broad boulevards, you’ll find small cobblestone streets lined with freshly painted buildings. Outdoor cafes compete for customers, and Western stores, casinos, clubs and restaurants offer a range of high-quality service.
The city’s architectural offerings are indebted to the Germans, the Swedes, the Poles and the imperial Russians, all of whom held sway in the region after the native Balts were first subdued in the 13th century. It has survived largely intact due to the nation’s geographical isolation. The facades are adorned with architectural styles ranging from German gothic to neoclassical to art nouveau. Outside of old town, rows of refurbished imperial mansions border well-tended public parks and the serpentine Pilsetas Canal.
At least on its surface, Jurmala shares this anti-Soviet sense of itself.
It has all the trappings of a seasonal seaside resort town. With its low-lying wooden buildings, manicured flowerbeds, freshly laid brick pathways, beer gardens and outdoor cafes, it could just as well be Southampton or Cape Cod.
Jurmala, which means seashore in Latvian, is actually a collective name for the series of 15 villages that lie between the Bay of Riga and the Lielupe River. This region of inland lakes and swamps has been known for its curative waters and treatments since the late 18th century. Since that time, it has hosted everyone from tsarist nobility to Latvian intellectuals. It has managed to be both a bohemian stomping ground and a posh playground for the wealthy and powerful.
While the area’s streets and beaches have been spruced up and are now in sterling condition, the mammoth sanitariums that once drew throngs of high party officials year round sit nearly vacant.
Only a handful of visitors come in the winter and the high season is getting shorter.
One reason may be because visa restrictions discourage Russians, Ukrainians and others from former Soviet countries from vacationing in Jurmala.
However, during the high season, the white sand beaches that stretch 20 kilometers west of Riga are filled with sunbathers and swimmers enjoying the refreshingly chilly Bay of Riga.
In the area’s forested interior, small shaded streets host newly refurbished mansions alongside wooden structures sporting wedding-cake ornamentation dating back to Latvia’s brief period of independence from 1920-40.
Jurmala has become a popular place for wealthy Rigans to build their dachas. These are not your typical small, charming dachas. These are art-deco-style multi-story mansions with electronic gates and built-in pools. The Latvian president lives in Jurmala, as do other parliamentary higher-ups.
The real center of Jurmala is the village of Majori. Most of the dining and drinking in Jurmala is done on Majori’s main drag, Jomas Street. On this four-block pedestrian thoroughfare you’ll find wall-to-wall restaurants, cafes and casinos. Some of the
| Not everyone enjoys the beach lying down. Summertime is sports time on the Bay of Riga. |
spiffier ones with newly remodeled interiors are Cafe De La Presse, Salmu Krogs and Orient. Many feature outdoor dining and beer gardens.
The Latvian diet is heavy on fish and opportunities abound for rich feasts of smoked or grilled salmon. Latvians also favor shashlyk style dishes such as grilled chicken or pork or the national specialty, smoked leg of pork.
The restaurants often double as bars where late-night ramblers sit people-watching until morning.
There are several clubs, like the Club Joma (54 Joma Street), a weekend hot spot where locals and tourists alike can plunk down 1 Lat ($1.50) to dance to abysmal pop in the dark carpeted confines of this dank billiards hall.
Expect to dine, dance and drink in Jurmala for prices comparable to what you might find in Kyiv.
While the tree-lined lanes and wooden houses of Jurmala are quaint, accommodations can be rustic. Even the colossal sanitariums still bear the tattered mark of Soviet engineering.
Fortunately, the tree-lined streets of the peninsula hide the structures from view.
Sanitariums such as the Rigas Licis and the Rigas Jurmala are Soviet monstrosities built in the 1970s and 1980s to provide a playground for communist leaders. While individual floors in some of these sanitariums have been renovated, for the most part, they remain the essence of Soviet tackiness.
Most offer medicinal baths, massage, aromatherapy and amenities such as tennis courts and seawater swimming pools.
Prices range from $17 (double occupancy) for the bottom-of-the-barrel Dzintari, to $119 for an evening at the Rigas Licis. Most sanitarium rooms can be rented for $40 to $50.
Regular hotels without spa cures and treatments offer fewer amenities, but greater architectural diversity. Establishments like Kursi, Rakstnieku Nams and Viktorija rent out small cottages or rooms in ornamented wooden houses.
Jurmala’s hotels also have been renovated. The Hotel Majori is housed in an immaculately restored art nouveau mansion. Double rooms cost $66-$99 per night.
There are several dorms with the barest of amenities. They offer double rooms with small single beds and communal showers and toilets. However, the rooms are dirt-cheap and cost about $5 per person per night. If you plan to beach it by day and club it by night, this may be the best option.
While Majori is certainly the resort hub, there are smaller, more secluded villages that offer specialized activities and entertainment. Kemeri and Jaunkemeri are the main therapeutic centers known for its sanitariums. Lielupe hosts a posh yacht club and its tennis facilities have been home to several Davis Cup events.
How to get to Riga:
Both Air Baltic and Aerosvit offer direct flights to Riga International Airport. Both airlines are currently offering rates of roughly $300.
How to get to Jurmala:
Commuter trains leave every 15 minutes from the Riga central train station from
6 a.m. to 11 p.m. The 30-45 minute journey costs less than $1,
but the trains are often packed during the high season (June-August).
Taxis are the quickest route.
The 20-30 minute journey will set
you back $15-$20.
Mini-Bus: Mini-buses leave from a stop opposite the central train station.
Tickets cost less than $1.
Where to stay:
For information on accommodations, contact the Jurmala Spa and Tourism
Information Center at 42 Jomas iela at (tel) 776-4276, (fax) 776-4672 or email [email protected]. The center also arranges bookings in private houses.
