Discover Latvia’s ancient capital
People often like to spend their summer getaways at the beach resorts of Turkey, Egypt or Crimea. However, summer is also a great time for checking out unexplored European cities. A post-Soviet country such as Latvia may not be your first choice for a summer vacation, but you may discover that there is a lot to see and enjoy in this ancient European country, just like I did on my recent journey to Latvia’s capital, Riga.
Riga tales
I really didn’t want to begin my story with the cliche “Riga is an ancient city,” but it’s inevitable – the Latvian capital has an eight-century-long history, strong traditions, hundreds of legends, and fantastic architecture reminiscent of beautiful princesses, noble knights, fire breathing dragons and other fairytale characters.
Let me start by retelling the infamous legend of Riga’s founding, recounted to me during my trip. Once upon a time there was a man named Kristaps who lived on the bank of Daugava River. His job was to take people across the river. Being very tall, Kristaps just put them on his shoulders and treaded across the water, while his “passengers” observed picturesque landscapes. One night, when the weather was extremely severe, Kristaps was getting ready for bed after a whole day of running back and forth across Daugava, when he heard a baby cry. He left his house, crossed the river and found a baby on the other bank. Kristaps took the baby home with him and went to sleep. But the next morning, Kristaps was surprised to find a pile of golden coins in place of the child. He used the money to build the first bridge across the Daugava and was finally able to retire from his job. Apparently, there was a substantial amount of baby-money, because after Kristaps’ death, it was used to build the whole town of Riga.
Naturally, history textbooks provide a more believable story: Riga was founded in 1201 by German crusaders, who built a fortress on the bank of the Daugava. Later, it was demolished and rebuilt several times, and nowadays it serves as the residence of the president of Latvia.
Latvia, which was formerly a part of the Soviet Union (although some believe this only existed on paper), is today part of the European Union. Still, the majority of Latvians speak both Latvian and Russian. But younger people, who no longer study Russian at school, are gradually forgetting the language of the “big brother,” studying European languages instead. Regardless, if you ask for directions while walking around the city, you will most likely be able to get a polite and detailed answer in both Russian and English, apart from Latvian.
I suggest starting your tour of Riga on Alberta street, a district listed as a UNESCO world heritage site for its historical, 19th century Art Nouveau architecture. The Art Nouveau architectural trend combines simple geometric forms and rich decor. Each building on Alberta street is adorned with garlands, mermaids, lions and dragons. If you are a little paranoid, you may even feel somewhat uncomfortable here, because in addition to mystical creatures, the walls of the buildings are adorned with faces expressing emotions that range from contentment to desperate fury and “watch” you on your way down the street, as if they are warning, “You better behave.”
Another interesting fact about Alberta street is that many of those amazing architectural works there were created by Mykhaylo Eisenstein, the father of the legendary moviemaker Serhiy Eisenstein.
Living history
Inspired by the breath of ancient times, you can make your way to the oldest part of the city – a picturesque beauty called Old Riga or the Old Town. I recommend you take a walk along the shady valleys of Vermanes Park on your way.
If you are eager to see all the historical places, there is one in Vermanes Park you shouldn’t miss: an ancient, 400-year-old fountain depicting the famous story of Beauty and the Beast in the original Latvian version. In this version, the beast doesn’t turn into prince charming. The fountain shows the beast with two beauties beside him, apparently living happily ever after all together.
Another fascinating site to see at Vermanes Park is a nice calm canal with several patterned bridges across it. According to local tradition, when a young couple gets married they have to go up one of the bridges and hang a padlock with their names engraved on it on the bridge’s railing and then throw the key into the water. I saw numerous padlocks crammed on every railing of every bridge in the park. Unfortunately, I didn’t venture to ask what the couple does if it decides to divorce – fish for the key, perhaps?
There are also plenty of benches in the park where a tired wonderer can rest and spend some time watching people walking along the alleys. Resting on one of those benches myself, I recalled what my colleague said when I told her about my plans to visit Riga. “Oh! You just must go! Latvian men are so handsome!” Well, I have to admit that was only part of the truth – Latvian girls are also beautiful, and just like the boys, most of them are blonde.
After leaving Vermanes Park, you can continue your walk and plunge into the charm of Old Riga’s streets and squares. The Old Town architecture is a mix of classic Latvian, Swedish and German styles, and almost every building and street has its own history. I would like to mention several places that impressed me most.
The first is Powder Tower (Pulvertornis), the only remaining part of the Sand Gate (Smilsu Tornis) fortification system that surrounded Riga in the 14th century. During the 16th century the Powder Tower served as a gunpowder warehouse. Today, this grand red-brick ivy-covered tower is home to the Latvia War Museum and would make a worthy background for your tourist photos.
Another popular tourist site is Dome Square, constructed in 1860. The Square was demolished and rebuilt several times, and its present appearance is a result of the reconstruction that took place in 1936. Opposite the Dome Square, stand several buildings dating from the 19th and 20th centuries, but the real “pearl” of the square is the Dome Cathedral. The largest cathedral in the Baltics, it was destroyed and rebuilt so many times since its creation in 1211 that its present look is a medley of several architectural styles, which, however, doesn’t deprive the 800-year-old building of its dignified and solemn look.
You should definitely see the Blackheads’ House on the Town Hall Square, a 14th century building that was completely ruined during World War II and rebuilt in 2001, just in time for Riga’s 800th anniversary. Blackheads weren’t monks that lived in the house, as you may think, but members of the guild of merchants, who owned the building in the 18th century. According to the story, all guild members had to remain single. Apparently, marriage did not facilitate business and was unwelcome among medieval traders. But to my mind, the reason was in the bell of St. Jacob Church. The bell of the church, which is also located in the Old Town, is called “The Bell of Wretched Sinners” and as legend goes, tolled by itself every time an unfaithful wife went by. Apparently the merchants heard it toll way too often.
The next place, called the Cat House, is a place I will never forget. It is named after two statues of mischievous black cats with their backs arched on the top of the towers of the building. The creatures were installed on the roof by the owner of the house, a tradesman who had a falling out with the Big Merchants Guild, in order to cast a spell on the organization. Some say that the tradesman ordered them to be turned upside down as an insult to his enemies.
To fans of popular Soviet films, some places in Old Riga may appear familiar. Many movie scenes that were supposed to be taking place in “foreign countries” were shot in the most European-looking cities of the Soviet Union, including Riga. The scene on Baker Street, from the Soviet screen version of the Sherlock Holmes adventures, was shot in Riga, and so were the scenes supposedly set in Germany in the legendary mini-series “17 Moments of Spring,” about the adventures of the brave Soviet spy known as Standartenfuhrer Stirlitz.
Dining Latvian-style
After a day of walking and sightseeing, you will need a satisfying meal, and when visiting Latvia for the first time, you should definitely try out local cuisine at a nice restaurant. One such place is Tavern near the ancient Amber way, located at the historical Swedish Headquarters in the Old Town. At Tavern you can sit at wooden tables designed in medieval style and order meals served on wooden plates, while waitresses wearing traditional Latvian dresses will tell you the history of the national cuisine.
In addition to you meal you can try beer from four historic regions of Latvia: Kurzeme, Zemgale, Vidzeme and Latgale. Each dish goes best with a specific kind of beer. For example, Sklandu Rausi, a tart filled with a mashed potatoes and carrots, tastes best with dark beer. Next you should try boiled peas with meat and vegetables in bacon gravy, and of course, Piragi, which are small bacon rolls filled with diced bacon and onion. These rolls are still baked today for special occasions and holidays. Some will find it strange, but the third kind of beer should traditionally go with some sweet-and-sour rye bread with caraway seeds and honey. The last beer, served with several kinds of cheese, is the lightest one, which as the waitress explained is due to the region’s geographic location. “This region is closest to Russia,” she explained, “Russians don’t drink beer. They wash vodka down with it. This is why it’s lighter than the others.”
Tasting national cuisine at Tavern near Amber way will cost you Lat 9.99, or about $20. Traditional Latvian food is unusual, but worth trying. But watch out – it’s full of calories and very filling!
After such a meal, you will hardly be able to continue sightseeing – at least I couldn’t. Though there were still many places of interest left for me to see, I could hardly move. So, I decided to leave the Old Town and walk back to my hotel. But on my way I decided to make one last stop at the Monument to Freedom on Freedom Boulevard.
The Monument to Freedom somewhat reminded me of the Rodina Mat (Motherland) monument on the bank of Dnipro and other similar statues built in Soviet times. The 42 meter-tall monument combines several sculpture compositions, picturing mythological creatures, historical heroes and events, and a tall column crowned with the symbol of Freedom: a woman holding three golden stars, symbolizing the country’s historical regions.
And speaking of souvenirs, you should definitely take home some of Latvia’s most famous drink – Riga Black Balsam. It’s quite heavy (45% alcohol), but also very healthy and delicious, if drank properly – either plain or with coffee. Your friends will definitely appreciate the gift.
How to get there:
airBaltic (Business class: $375, Economy Class $335). www.airbaltic.com
Where to eat:
Tavern (4 Tornu, +371-732-1260).
LOTOSS (7 Skarnu, 721-2665).
ALUS SETA (6 Tigornu, +371-722-2431).
Where to stay:
Reval Inn – four stars, rooms start at Euro 99. (55 Elizabetes, 6777-2345).
Laine – single suite: Lat 50/Euro 72, double: Lat 60/Euro 86. (11 Skolas, 6728-8816).
