Alexander McQueen, Dsquared2 and Moschino find their way to the capital
More and more high street fashion designers are finding their way to Kyiv and opening boutiques. The latest arrivals to Ukraine’s fashion scene include Alexander McQueen, DScquared2 and Moschino.
The Alexander McQueen shop was just recently added to the fashion family of Sanahunt Luxury Concept Store, which houses a number of various boutiques under one roof, each bearing individual design that’s as interesting to see as the garments.
The shop was created by the project of architect William Russell and Alexander McQueen himself. The concept of the design derives from McQueen’s fascination with history and customs of ancient Celtic priests – druids, whose secret communities possessed mysterious natural force doctrine and clairvoyants that aimed to find world power. Alexander McQueen’s shop is situated on the upper level of the boutique and consists of two adjoining halls. In the center of the first hall there is a massive mirror column with a built-in TV screen displaying the latest Alexander McQueen catwalk creations, and table with luminous halogen surface – made to look similar to the sacral table of druids, with cocoon-like arm-chairs.
Displays for accessories, which are placed along the walls, consist of the arched niches of different sizes, and remind the monastic cells of priests, carved in rocks. Handcrafted mannequins stand between them, covered by a spider’s web and decorated with floral arrangements. The second hall is also framed by a large mirror column. The softly lit built-in niches create an illusion, as though items are gliding.
Items from the latest Alexander McQueen’s collection autumn-winter 2008-2009 are already presented at the boutique. The collection is a kind of a self-imagined fantasy of crinoline princesses and British-colonial romance, according to international fashion critics, it arguably surpassed anything the designer has achieved in 14 years. There are ballerina-length multi-flounced dance dresses, military tailcoats with tight pants, slim brocade and pantsuits with crisp white high-necked shirts, imperial-red and velvet jackets bedecked with antique Indian tiaras and diamond neckpieces and incredible rich Empire-line saris.
The menswear collection is inspired by McQueen’s travels to Nepal, India and Bhutan. The rich culture and traditions of those countries are reflected in the ornamental decorations on the clothing. Tightly belted jackets and knits, the national dress for Bhutan men, long haired yak sweaters and scarves indicative of the bovine creatures native to the Himalayan and Mongolian regions and some head dresses will make you think of Genghis Khan.
DSquared2 flagship store was opened in Milan in 2007 and now Kyiv has its own Dsquared2 boutique. High-end fashion brand Dsquared2, created by two Canadian brothers Dean and Dan Caten represents a unique mix of Canadian origins, Italian tailoring and fine attention to detail, providing the brand with a solid fan base. Dsquared2’s garments have been worn by celebrities such as Justin Timberlake, Steven Gerrard, Lenny Kravitz, and Madonna. In 2000-2001, the brothers designed over 150 pieces for Madonna’s “Drowned World Tour” and “Don’t Tell Me” music video.
Dsquared2 shows are often multimedia extravaganzas, combining fashion with art and music. The Caten brothers infuse their designs and fashion shows with explosive energy and sex appeal. They are known for their dynamic runway spectacles. In 2003, Christina Aguilera closed the men’s show with a strip tease of sorts—only she stripped the male models of their clothes. The design of the boutique has inspired by the flagship store in Milan and it reflects the colorful identity of the brand which exposes the Italian-Canadian designers Dean and Dan Caten’s taste.
The Kyiv boutique of the brand consists of three halls: the biggest is occupied by men’s and woman’s wear, other smaller two halls are used for shoes and accessories. The design copies the one at Milan store and is about pure nature being mixed with technology and modern elements, mirrors creating visual games and hi-tech materials such as steel, as opposed to the rough wood.
The entire men’s collection 2008 is a clear homage to the “King of Cool” American actor and motor racer Steve McQueen. Motorcycle, race car, and dare devil imagery came across through the mandatory leather jackets and jumpsuits. The collection exudes the essence of cool, with a bad-boy image. Racing stripes and a “Steve” logo are everywhere from hats to patches to belt buckles. The collection is a mix of rebellious youth-oriented looks as tailoring mixed with casual. Yellow blazers and turtle necks are paired with jeans. Skinny motorcycle pants contrasts with voluminous jumpsuits. Suits with chains added a touch of combativeness to tailored suits with sheen.
As for the women’s collection there are both conservative and completely hooligan styles presented. A classic beige jumper trimmed with delicate lace (Hr 2,400) and striped silk dresses (Hr 8800), cool vintage ripped jeans (Hr 3,500). Even their casual wear line looks too chic. For instance, there is snow-white sun-dress with tiny ruches (Hr 15,000) or double-breasted raincoat with short sleeves and leather’s trim (Hr 7,300). Their shoe collection for 2008 is definately hot with Dsquared2’s signature hardware detail and a unique architectural heel. There are tantalizing evening sandals with hardware embellished heel and platform (Hr 6,750), sandals with eye-catching raspberry heels and sexy ankle green wrap closure (Hr 3,950). Even extremely aggressive lacquered shoes with metallic scallops on high heels look unexpectedly feminine (Hr 4,850). Among various accessorizes Dsquared2 presented their fragrances with woody floral scent for men “He Wood” and later for women “She Wood,” designed for the cool girls who wear men’s scents that are a bit more unisex.
The Moschino brand which was created by one of the most provocative and un-orthodox Italian fashion designer Franco Moschino, opened their own boutique in Kyiv a couple of months ago. Before, you could only find Moschino garments in various multi-brand stores of the capital. The new Moschino store, takes the task of creating a fashion fun house for customers seriously. Inspired by the work of Franco Moschino, whose creations were full of snide fashion asides, the store is a joker’s delight, full of visual punch lines dreamt up by a decorative prankster. For example, displays with accessories imitate enormous finger-rings with diamonds, and brackets look like branches of trees.
Arm-chairs are very curious: one of them resembles an enormous black bag, others are made from the numerous plush scarlet hearts. Boutique consists of two levels: Moschino signature line on the first floor, on the upper-level – the lower-priced collection, Cheap and Chic. Black-yellow dresses with a volume flower on a breast, silver skirts (Hr 3,480) and gold accessories (belts – Hr 2,952, bags – Hr 4,992) are impress the most in new Cheap and Chic collection. Various lacquered ballet-shoes of gold, black, white and red colors (Hr 3,168) are the highlights of footwear collection. The choice of bags is absolutely astonishing: with little leather flounces (Hr 6,000) in black and white peas (Hr 11,952), plastic transparent bags (Hr 3,648). There are enough evening dresses as well, much restrained – for example, black chiffon dresses with lace trimming (Hr 6,984). Fabrics are more refined, cutting out is quainter and costs are higher. A beige crepe de chine dresses with volume skirt cost Hr 20,016 and a silk jacket with little spangles costs Hr 18,504.
Sanahunt (8/16 Hrushevskoho, 464-1127);
Dsquared2 (9 Horodetskoho, 498-2025);
Moschino (33 Chervonoarmiyska, 287-7474).
