From Pochaynynska, the possibilities for sightseeing, dining and shopping are seemingly endless.
hreshchatytska – but the byways off these beaten paths beckon to the amateur historian and the casual wanderer, or to couples taking their toddler out for a stroll. One pleasant street in particular, Pochaynynska, is largely ignored. We thought that was unfair. To give Pochaynynska its due, we compiled a list of all the cool stuff that’s on it – or (we cheated a little bit) near it.
St. Illya (Elias) Orthodox Church (2 Pochaynynska).
The cathedral currently standing here was built by the Byzantines on the ruins of Kyiv’s first wooden Christian church, which is mentioned in the Rus chronicles as far back as 945 A.D., decades before Volodymyr the Great introduced Christianity to the Kyivans in 988. In 1692, the cathedral was rebuilt in the Ukrainian baroque style, thanks to the contributions of a rich Kyivan of Cossack descent, Petro Hudyma. After the great fire of 1811, which destroyed all of Podil, the church lost its character, as Russian architects invited to reconstruct the cathedral gave it its present look. But St. Illya is still home to paintings of the 19th and 20th centuries, with centuries-old frescos hidden underneath.
Thanks largely to its picturesque location, the cathedral today is popular among Ukrainian high society figures, including President Leonid Kuchma’s wife Lyudmila, who attends Easter mass here every year.
St. Nicholas Naberezhny Orthodox Church (4 Pochaynynska).
Next to St. Illya Cathedral, St. Nicholas Naberezhny was rebuilt in 1772 by Kyiv-Mohyla Academy graduate Ivan Hryhorovych Barsky. It is yet another reminder of the times when numerous churches decorated the banks of the Pochayna River, which flowed through Podil in the Kyivan Rus era.
St. Nicholas Naberezhny (“Nicholas by the river”) protected sailors and medieval traders, who depended on the river to do business. The modern church isn’t as busy with weddings and baptisms as its neighbor, and so offers wonderful opportunities to walk about freely, even on weekends.
The Old Believers Church (26 Pochaynynska).
For more than 150 years those blue, decaying buildings behind the metal fence on Pochaynynska have been home to the Old Believers – a breakaway group of Orthodox Christians who reject the reforms introduced into Orthodoxy in the 17th century, bringing the Russian Orthodox Church in line with the Greek Orthodox Church.
Hetman History Museum (16B Spaska, 416-5549).
Open Sat.-Thu. From 10 a.m. till 5 p.m.
This museum, housed in a building from the late 17th century, is devoted to the Ukrainian Cossack State of the 17th-18th centuries and the Ukrainian revolution (1917-1921). Legend has it the building was once home to Hetman Mazepa, and in 1763 the last leader of the Zaporizhyan Cossacks, Petro Kalnyshevsky, visited there.
In 1811 the house was damaged by fire and then rebuilt by Kyiv architect Andriy Melensky. Some of the original structure remains. Following its conversion to apartments in 1921, the house was made an architectural monument in 1963. In the 1980s the apartments were liquidated and the house stood empty for 10 years, only to be reopened in 1993 as the Hetman Museum. Permanent exhibitions cover Hetman Ivan Mazepa and Hetman Pavlo Skoropadsky. Admission is Hr 1 or Hr 5 for a Ukrainian-language tour. Call in advance to arrange English-language tours.
The Old Bursa (27 Naberezhno-Khreshchatytska).
The building that now hosts the Admissions Office for the National University of Kyiv-Mohyla Academy used to be a Kyiv-Mohyla dorm (or bursa) back in the 18th century. The original bursa was built by Ivan Hryhorovich Barsky in 1765, and was reconstructed by A. Melensky in the early 19th century. The Old Bursa was home to 400 students.
The Kyiv-Mohyla Collegium was founded by Metropolitan Petro Mohyla in 1632 and resembled typical Western European Latin schools. It was given its present status by Peter the Great in 1701. The Kyiv-Mohyla Academy was the first higher educational institution in the old Russian Empire. Children of the Cossacks, Orthodox clerics and ordinary city residents were part of its early student body. Renowned as a center for education, scientific research and culture in Eastern Europe, the university drew students from Russia, Romania, Bulgaria, Serbia and elsewhere.
Center for Contemporary Art (2 Skovorody, 238-2446).
Open Tue.-Sun. from 1 p.m. till 6 p.m.
Located in the 18th-century premises of the Kyiv-Mohyla Academy, the CCA is well known in Ukraine, becoming the first institution in Kyiv solely devoted to contemporary art in Ukraine. The Center was established by American philanthropist George Soros in 1993 as part of the international SCCA (Soros Centers for Contemporary Art) network. Since 1993, the Center has been hosting exhibitions of Ukrainian and foreign contemporary artists, including Andy Warhol. Admission to the CCA is free.
The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (15/10B Skovorody).
Located around the corner from the gleaming Podil Plaza business center, a massive symbol of commerce, and less than one city block away from the beautiful St. Nicholas Naberezhny Orthodox Church, this slightly dingy house of prayer is easy to miss. But it’s there, and it’s open to the public. The Mormon community in Ukraine is 9,000 strong and has 22 meetinghouses, seven of which are in Kyiv.
Podil Plaza (19 Skovorody).
Located in the heart of a historic district, Podil Plaza has been criticized for its ultra-modern exterior, but those who designed the building argue that the A-class business center blends in well, reflecting the surrounding buildings and monuments.
The nine-story plaza doesn’t overshadow the surrounding buildings; it somehow works, reflecting the green domes of St. Nicholas Naberezhny on one side and the rows of brick residential homes on the other. On a sunny day Podil Plaza, designed by Kyiv Serhiy Babushkin, reflects light to all corners of this generally under-lit nook of Podil. The center was clearly designed with the needs of tenants in mind, as most rooms overlook picturesque Podil; some have views of the river.
Lacoste (25 Naberezhno-Khreshchatytska).
Lacoste isn’t just a cool label for prepsters anymore, though tennis pros (and even soccer hooligans) worldwide still don clothing adorned with the company’s cute croc logo, and they do it with pride. This riverside shop carries a range of clothing and accessories, including handbags, men’s shoes, retro jackets, ties and knitted hats for winter. It also has the signature Lacoste polo shirt in almost every color imaginable. This season look for lots of form-fitting solid-color sweaters, too.
La Perla (25 Naberezhno-Khreshchatytska).
Visit this luxurious boutique for women’s apparel and lingerie. Sexy and elegant, La Perla Italian underwear, lingerie and sleepwear for women make lovely gifts. For gentlemen looking for a special gift and know their loved one well, this store is the thing, but for those still getting to know their belle, it might be better stick to dinner and a movie.
Betty Barclay (22/1 Sahaidachnoho).
The Betty Barclay boutique carries evening wear for those upcoming holiday galas in addition to smart-looking business and semi-formal wear. A sleeveless black gown by Vera Mont (Hr 1,245) with a delicate beading on the bust is elegant enough for any formal black tie event, but don’t take our word for it.
Tequila House (8 Spaska, 417-0358).
This Tex-Mex restaurant, which just celebrated its sixth birthday, hardly needs an introduction. The margaritas are about the best in Kyiv and the fajitas will satisfy the cravings of most any North American transplants. Will a meal at Tequila House make you feel like you’re in Mexico?
Maybe not, but it’s still damn good. Happy birthday, Tequila House!
Mimino (10A Spaska, 417-3545).
A Georgian restaurant that captures the tastes and smells of the Caucusus. Mimino takes its name from a popular Soviet comedy about a Georgian pilot (the waitresses are dressed as stewardesses), but it’s the food everyone remembers here. Georgian food is aromatic and flavorful: the emphasis is on herbs, spices, fruits, nuts and wines that complement simple grilled or roasted meats, like pork, mutton, beef or poultry. Mimino also sets a high standard for its cheeses and breads, namely khachapuri and lavash. And of course there’s the wine, which is the lifeblood of Georgia. Every lunch is accompanied with wine and nearly every Georgian has a glass or two before dinner. Head to Mimino and pour it forth.
Terra restaurant (19 Skovorody, 467-6121).
Located in the Podil Plaza business center, Terra positions itself as a European restaurant specializing in quick business lunches. Terra offers two meal options: the corporate lunch (Hr 27) and the chef’s lunch (Hr 45). With the corporate lunch, diners may choose from among several quick menu options that constantly change, while the chef’s lunch offers larger portions and more choices from the menu. Replace any dish from the chef’s lunch with a dessert.
Arizona BBQ (25 Naberezhno-Khreshchatytska, 416-2438).
A classic American Southwest grill, AZ is that long-established expat standard in Podil that does a bacon-cheddar burger without compare. But that’s just the tip of the iceberg. Among other menu items, AZ does Tex-Mex nachos, tacos, quesadillas and fajitas, not to mention steaks, ribs, great French fries and awesome cocktails. After eating, play some pool or watch the big game on the big screen TV. Or have a cold shot of honey-pepper vodka.
L’Amour (17/18 Naberezhno-Khreshchatytska, 467-7897).
French cuisine, lots of red, and the Cupids on the walls define this place: it’s romantic, of course. The food’s French: foie gras with almonds in a strawberry sauce, oysters on ice and escargots baked with cheese in a light beer sauce – all come highly recommended. The heart of the restaurant is a little wine room in which you can sample their extensive and excellent wine collection.
Tsentralny restaurant (28 Mezhyhirska, 467-7826).
Tsentralny puts a broader European accent on a menu anchored in French cuisine. The elegant interior includes opulent furniture and dazzling chandeliers – the effect is of a 19th century hotel particulier. Try the lamb roasted in herbs Provencal and served with baked potatoes and a garlic sauce. The restaurant has smoking and non-smoking sections, as well as a VIP room with an open fireplace. Live piano music plays from 7:30 p.m. till 10:30 p.m.
Massandra cafe (19/21 Naberezhno-Khreshchatytska, 416-0440).Crimea’s rich soil and temperate climate produce some of the best dessert wines in Europe. Many visit the historical Massandra winery near Yalta each year, but you don?t have to go all the way to Crimea. Massandra Kyiv, though not a winery, is a pleasant, cozy cafe and shop that sells a wide range of Crimean wines, including many from the Massandra winery. The entrance hall of this cellar-like wine bar is filled with Massandra memorabilia and wine-related art. Visitors may arrange for a wine tasting in the shop, or do their own tasting in the cafe. Check out the soups and entrees.
