Ukrainian poet Taras Shevchenko would unquestionably roll over in his grave upon hearing the Russian pop music being played in the Kyiv restaurant named in his honor. But he would be impressed by its recent renovation, which has turned it into a cozy and atmospheric eatery.
Situated in the beautiful and newly landscaped Shevchenko Park, Taras can’t help but be noticed – and draw a crowd. Unlike many of Kyiv’s recently opened and newly renovated restaurants, business at Taras is booming, with patrons dining and drinking well into the night.
Taras used to be no more than a tent-covered tavern. But the owners – who count Tsarske Selo and Pervak among their collection of the city’s culinary establishments – have pumped a lot of money into it, giving the restaurant a modern, yet traditional, Ukrainian feel, while also demonstrating an admirable degree of restraint on the kitsch.
Taras is all about wood – from the rafters and vaulted ceiling, the staircase leading to the second-floor banquet room, to the 30 small tables in the main dining hall. It holds the look of an old mill with tasteful touches, including wagon wheels, glazed dishware, wicker placemats and ceramic vases with dried flowers.
Also kept to a reasonable minimum are the prices and the size of the menu, which relies on classic Ukrainian cuisine.
Salads begin at Hr 10 and even the simple, fresh vegetable Soloha salad (Hr 13) arrived in a heart-shaped bowl. Also simple but slightly less successful was the Young Lady salad (Hr 30), which consisted of tiny Black Sea shrimp, apples and eggs set on a bed of lettuce. The shrimps may be tasty when they’re fresh and you’re sitting with a cold beer under a Crimean sun, but the heavy dollop of mayonnaise only gave the entire composition an unappealing tinge.
Taras’ green borscht (Hr 10), made from a sour herb mixture, was much more appetizing. Served in a clay pot with chunks of potato, the borscht was indeed sour but also interesting, and was perfectly complemented with pompushky.
For our main course, we passed on the meat dishes, which ranged from the Pork Taras cutlet (Hr 19) to the chicken shashlyk (Hr 30), and opted instead for the fish. Served in a generous portion, the Cossack-style fried salmon (Hr 41) was cooked to perfection – toasted on the outside and flaky on the inside. The baked-garlic potatoes (Hr 9) proved to be the ideal side dish.
Desserts include fruit salad with ice cream (Hr 21) and Napoleon cake (Hr 7). We elected to go straight for the cappuccino (Hr 7) and a frothy cold coffee with ice cream (Hr 10).
Taras is popular not just because it is conveniently located but also because it has a pleasant atmosphere and is affordable. The large open windows offer excellent views of the park, while the mill and the greenery surrounding the restaurant also provide patrons with privacy from park passersby.
Diners who stay away from the black caviar (100 grams for Hr 100) can get a reasonably priced meal at Taras. It’s also a great place for those who just want to stop in for a drink. A half-liter of Chernihivske is Hr 5 and a 33 ml bottle of Heineken is Hr 10. There is also an extensive liquor and cocktail menu.
Taras also offers an abundance of reasonably priced cold and hot appetizers, including the intriguing Georgian basturma (skewered beef) for Hr 13.
Taras appears to pay some heed to its staff, as the menu says: “A bonus to the tea waiter is great.” It must have some effect, since the service at Taras is excellent.
Nibbles
The popular Golden Gate Restaurant and Pub was forced to close its doors June 30. However, manager Robin Attryde described the situation as only temporary. He said he is hoping the bar would open back up in early July. Attryde attributed the recent problems to bureaucractic wrangling with city officials.
On June 29, nearby Pantagruel was forced to close its small patio in front of the restaurant. According to management, the residents who live above the restaurant complained about the noise.
