It may not be much of a sight, but hidden behind a generic facade on Nizhniy Val in Kyiv's Podil neighborhood is possibly the city's best Uzbek eatery. Called Skorovodka, this restaurant is as far off the beaten track as you can get, but it's definitely worth the detour.
Every dish is prepared on the spot – the waiter will tell you just how long you have to wait. A visit to the restrooms is the best proof: on the way you get a peek into the kitchen with its wood-burning ovens baking delicacies and spreading the smell of freshly cooked food throughout the joint.
And those pastries are definitely something you should not miss. The baked Samsa (Hr 12 per piece), better known in the West as Samosas, combines French-like pastry dough with a hearty meat filling; Chebureki (Hr 10 per piece) are a fried version, while the boiled Manti (Hr 30 for three) resemble Ukrainian varenyki, or dumplings, only with a lamb filling. Portions are reasonable, coming in much cheaper than most swanky, centrally located Uzbek competitors.
Soups, including Lagman and Shurpa (both Hr 30), are a good way to get the party going, while Plov (Hr 30), a spicy combination of rice, carrots and meat, can serve as garnish, but the real treat is the lamb shashlik (Hr 50). Note that this will come with fatty pieces, but these go great spicy sauces – much like the Ukrainian salo.
The restaurant is run by Magemud Magdiev, an Uzbek émigré who spent his Soviet-era military service in Ukraine and then decided to stay. Happy with life in Kyiv, he nonetheless sticks to Uzbek traditions when it comes to food, and will usually pop up during the course of the meal to make sure that everything is going well.
While service is pleasantly upbeat, don’t expect English language menus or other amenities. Short and simple, the menu shows food and prices in Russian (Magdiev claims he is too old to pick up Ukrainian), with no exotic additions.
The only misfits on the menu are several dishes from the South Caucasus, like the Georgian Khinkali. Otherwise, it’s Central Asian all the way – pure, simple, spicy and thoroughly delicious.
Skorovodka’s other shortcoming are the drinks. Beer is often tepid and flat, and while the tea and coffee are a decent alternative, vodka will definitely be your beverage of choice.
Not that it matters. In fact, that’s just how you are supposed to take your dinner: sharing a vast range of dishes with friends, with the occasional shot to keep things going. The marinated vegetables prove an excellent companion – a delicate, slightly sweet garlic clove or piece of spicy chili pepper will both chase down the vodka and fuel your appetite.
Skovorodka
13 Nizhniy Val
Hours: 8 a.m.-12 a.m. Monday-Friday
Dinner for two: up to Hr 150
