YALTA – The seaside city of Yalta in southern Crimea was once among Europe’s fanciest resort destinations, favored by Russia’s Tsars and the Soviet Union’s elite. In fact, it was so prestigious it was the second place in the USSR where Coca-Cola was sold, the first being Moscow. But even though the Iron Curtain fell long ago, Yalta has held on to a certain Soviet charm that continues to mesmerize even experienced travelers.
What is first striking upon arrival from Simferopol – Crimea’s capital and regional gateway – is the smell of rosemary, thyme, lavender and other herbs. Despite the traffic, the air turns into a delicious cocktail of these and the sea as the wharf nears. The relaxed atmosphere in Yalta reminds one of Goa, with people playing music on the streets, lying on the grass or just strolling the town’s charming, narrow streets.
Yalta’s distinctly Soviet flavor appears in its rickety, mid-20th century trolleybuses; bland, no-frill canteens on every corner; and vendors hawking sweet corn on the beach. Incidentally, Yalta and the surrounding villages don’t have great beaches. They are narrow, covered with rocks, rather than sand, and so packed with tourists that it is nearly impossible to find a place to rest.
But staying in Yalta means being in close proximity to great tourist destinations that are just a short trip away.
The most obvious day trip is to the peak of Ai Petri, Crimea’s highest mountain, which looms over Yalta at 1,234 meters. Minibuses and cable cars go there. Nature lovers can take one of the many trails, which takes approximately four hours. Most trails start from Miskhor and Alupka. A guide can also be hired.
Nearing the peak, the forest air changes from Yalta’s fresh and aromatic breeze to a pure coolness. At the top, one’s effort is rewarded by an amazing view of the sea, Yalta and the surrounding settlements below.
For the best experience of the summit, skip the tourist-trap cafes and souvenir shops and step outside for a walk along the nearby plateau. A serene small forest on the peak and the cliffs behind it offer a breathtaking view in almost complete solitude, since visitors rarely go this far beyond the tourist area.
Take the minibus or the cable car to get back to the bottom, or hike the trail downhill to reach Mishor or Alupka. There you can catch a bus to Yalta.
Dedicate another day to exploring the Vorontsov palace in Alupka, about a 20-minute drive from Yalta. Built in 1828 in English Tudor style with elements of Islamic architecture, the palace served as the summer residence of Prince Mykhail Vorontsov, governor of the southern provinces of the Russian Empire.
The palace, which is probably the finest in the whole of Crimea, is surrounded by a beautiful park, with hundreds of species of plants brought from the Mediterranean, the Americas and East Asia.
It is disconcerting to be at the seaside with no decent beach, but ask around and the locals will point you in the direction of some secret, serene spots for swimming. I was lucky to have one of them revealed by a couple of friends who spend a lot of their time around Yalta. To get there take a bus to the village of Simeiz, which is about a 40-minute drive from Yalta’s center. The village itself is a nice place for a relaxed stroll, but its beach is about as crowded as Yalta’s. However, if you veer to the right while walking from the park and climb down the rocks you will be rewarded with turquoise waters, schools of fish, some large flat stones to lie on and very few, if any, people.
For an amazing view of the southern shore of Crimea around Yalta, board one of the boats that sail from the main wharf in Yalta every hour. From the boat you can see the trademark of Crimea – the Swallow’s Nest, a tiny decorative castle on a 40-meter cliff jutting out over the sea.
If you take a boat that goes in the opposite direction from Yalta, you will see the beautiful locations near the town of Gurzuf, including its clear waters and water caves, as well as the famous Nikita Botanic Gardens from the sea.
In Yalta, stay away from glamorous restaurants and eat at simpler cafes that offer local cuisine and charm. The Crimean Tatar cafes serve up mutton kabobs, mutton soup, homemade pasta, samsa – fried or baked pastries filled with meat and onions – and chebureki – fried turnovers filled with ground or minced meat and onions.
Train ticket to Simferopol – Hr 80-200
Bus from Simferopol to Yalta – Hr 30
Daily rate for studio apartment for two in downtown – $40
Mutton kabobs – Hr 18-30
Boat ticket for 2-hour tour – Hr 80
1 kg of peaches – Hr 10-12
Bottle of mid-range Crimean wine – Hr 35-50
Minibus ticket to Ai Petri – Hr 60
To avoid crowds go in June or September
Kyiv Post staff writer Svitlana Tuchynska can be reached at [email protected]
