If there is any city in the world that combines Soviet heritage with imperial splendour graciously, it is definitely the Hungarian capital of Budapest.
As you arrive in the city on the Danube River you soon notice that something is not quite European about it. The trolleybuses, worn out subway carriages and old city buses remind you of Soviet times. It seems that even people smile rarely and dress glum and conservative, just like they do back home.
Despite this, the former second capital of the Austro-Hungarian Empire is also filled with imperial magnificence, pomposity and breathes glamor. Budapest is home to just 1.7 million people and is perfect for walking. The heart of the city is the 14th century Buda castle up the hill, which opens a magnificent view over the river and the city on both banks. If you don’t stick with the loud crowd of tourists and walk around the entire hill you will enjoy not only the grand castle but also medieval narrow streets, old canons and paths where occasional locals take their dogs for walks, a baby for a stroll or sip hot wine in evenings.
As you descend the hill leaving the castle behind, Danube expands before you, offering a connection between the two parts of the city – Buda on one bank and Pest on the opposite – that is the famous 1849 chain bridge.
The visiting card of the city – the grandiose Parliament – awaits on the other side of the bridge. Another reminder of the blend of Soviet and imperial is right at its foot – the monument to the 1956 Hungarian revolution. The monument marks the place where people filled the streets to protest the government’s Soviet-imposed policies, but who were shot at by the police near the legislature.
From here walking lovers can stroll all the way to the Heroes Square, on the iconic 1872 Andrássy Avenue, passing by the old Western Railway station and the Gothic Church of St. Elizabeth.
The avenue ends with the immense Heroes square, filled with impressive medieval style statues of the leaders of the seven tribes that founded Hungary in the 9th century and other significant figures. Completed in 1900, the square lasted only 19 years, until in 1919 the Hungarian heroes were replaced with the statue of Karl Marx with a worker and a peasant. The heroes returned and Marx disappeared after the Soviet Union collapsed.
Right near where Marx used to stand, there is another remnant of the empire – Vajdahunyad Castle. Completed in 1908, the castle features copies of several landmark buildings from different parts of the Kingdom of Hungary. Architecture lovers will enjoy the medley of different styles found in Hungary, all present in one spot – Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque.
Szechenyi thermal baths are right across the street from here, like a blessing after a long walk. Both locals and tourists seem to adore the largest medicinal bath in Europe as much as the Austrian-Hungarian aristocracy enjoyed it since 1913. Two thermal springs supply the bath with water rich in minerals.
After swimming, cooling in the outdoor pool and perspiring in an aromatic sauna, expect to be hungry. For the best sight and taste of Hungarian traditional food aim for the farmers market, a weekly occasion in most districts of the city. Some farmers bring not only homemade food from their villages but are quite a spectacle by themselves, wearing colorful, traditional Hungarian costumes. Local sausages – the spicy Gyulai kolbasz and Teliszalami – are a must, as well as Tokaji – a white dessert wine, and Palinka – a strong fruit brandy usually made of plum or pear.
Master low cost rules
Travel from Kyiv to Budapest is much easier and cheaper since Wizz Air, the low-cost carrier, started to operate the route from Zhuliany airport on a daily basis. A roundtrip ticket will cost Hr 500-1,400, depending on the date. Take time to learn about the hidden costs, however. First, make sure you have one piece of luggage no bigger than 56x45x25 centimeters when flying from Kyiv. If you have a larger bag, do pay for it online – the price is Hr 115, but will double if you pay at check-in.
The size of the luggage is less if you fly back home from Budapest. Passengers are allowed to take a bag no bigger than 42x32x25 centimeters free of charge. If you discover the bag is larger at check-in, you will be asked to pay 40 euros.
Make sure you check in online at least two hours prior to your flight from Budapest – otherwise you will be asked to pay 30 euros at the check-in counter.
Kyiv Post staff writer Svitlana Tuchynska can be reached at [email protected].
