In 2013, arguably the largest wave of protests in the Turkey’s modern history started over a few trees. After years of urban initiatives transforming public space into private enterprise, Turks pushed back against a plan to transform Gezi Park in Istanbul’s central Taksim Square into another shopping mall.
In the aftermath of the protests, President Recep Tayyip Erdogan announced the district around Taksim Square will “be the place where we will start to build the new Turkey.” While the park remains too sensitive to touch, dramatic changes can be seen on the avenue leading up to it: Istiklal Avenue. The street tells a story of a decade of successful government initiatives meant to transform the district from a center of culture to one of commerce. And, as Istiklal becomes unrecognizable, locals are wondering just who the “new Turkey” benefits.