Ukraine has a new president – a former comedian. We also have a new parliament – a brand new party won by a landslide. None of their MPs are incumbent. They are currently at a special. Something is happening in Ukraine something that runs far deeper than a change of president.
Ukraine is changing and changing fast. The last five years have seen tremendous upheaval in Ukrainian politics and society, some of it has been difficult but there is another side, a positive side – while many other countries seem to be bent on closing themselves off from the rest of the world – Ukraine is opening up.
A first-time visitor driving into Kyiv from the international airport is sure to spot several of the hundreds of huge, new murals that decorate the walls of the apartment buildings. They are all over town, with new ones appearing every month and many, the work of well-known international artists. They really do brighten the place up. Many Western perceptions and stereotypes about Ukraine and Ukrainians are long out of date. Nightlife in the major cities has changed beyond recognition. While 15 years ago nightclubs were the seedy domain of local businessmen and Western top managers, now they are populated by many of Ukraine’s new professional class of creative, open-minded and well-traveled, young software developers, programmers, and freelancers.
Linguistically, Ukraine is changing too. While older people tend to speak Russian, younger people often prefer Ukrainian. They will be more than happy to practice their English with you if you need help. Which brings me to my next point: in comparison with most European cities, the major cities of Ukraine are refreshingly tourist-free – for now. So visit while you can because, and please don’t tell anyone, it’s cheap. Your dollars, euro or pounds go a long, long way here.
Café culture has exploded, not just in Kyiv but right across the country. While abroad, coffee connoisseurs are often confined to the usual multi-national brands, these have yet to enter Ukraine, leaving the market wide open to small, independent business. Each café has its own, special ambiance and prides itself on its own coffee recipes, and delicious, traditional, home-made pastries.
The restaurant scene has expanded too, young Ukrainians frequently travel East, these days as well as West and have brought back their taste for Asian cuisine. There’s Chinese, Indian, Thai and sushi – people here are crazy about sushi. But don’t forget to try the local fare. One of the major factors in Ukraine’s turbulent past was due to neighboring empires battling over Ukraine’s rich black earth and we remain an agricultural superpower. Many Ukrainian restaurants source their ingredients from local, small-scale organic farmers and you can really taste the difference. If you haven’t tried Georgian food, give it a try! Georgian food is to Eastern Europe what Italian is to Western Europe. Everybody likes it as well they should. It’s delicious.
Festivals have also taken hold here. There’s the Odesa International Film Festival. A festival founded and run by women in the historical port city of Odesa, on the Black Sea. Since its inception ten years ago, more than one million people, have watched more than 1000 films from over one hundred countries. Outside there’s also a huge, open-air festival with art installations, club nights and beach parties.
Set against the backdrop of the stunning, historic city of Lviv every June there’s the Leopolis Jazz Festival, one of the ten best jazz festivals in Europe according to the Guardian. There are three stages, and when you’ve had your fill of jazz make sure to spend some time wandering around Lviv’s beautiful Austro-Hungarian old town.
Nothing symbolizes the new Ukraine more than the Atlas Festival. A week-long music festival in late July, that takes place in the grounds of the old Soviet, exhibition center in Goloseivksiy Park. Musically it’s a real potpourri, with international stars rubbing shoulders with rising local bands and established acts.
In mid-August there’s the White Nights festival. It takes place in the old silk factory on the left bank of the Dnipro, a massive, old Soviet building with a total area of 120,000 square metres. This year 120 artists will be performing over two days on five stages, there are also light shows and a street food zone.
In late August Brave! Factory takes place in Kyivmetrobud, the very factory that assembles Kyiv’s trusty metro trains – while the factory is closed for the Independence Day celebrations. The factory floors are transformed into huge dance zones with illuminated pathways leading to various dance floors, and metal platforms are turned into stages for performers. Although a mere four years old, Telekom Electronic Beats website listed Brave as one of 20 must-see European techno festivals this summer alongside established internationally famous ones such as Glastonbury in the UK and Sziget in Hungary.
One thing that comes as a bit of a shock for tourists arriving in Ukraine, is our long, hot summer so bring your shorts, sandals and a hat! Most cities are blessed with large, free public beaches on the river. The last few years have seen many exclusive, private beach clubs open up, catering for foreigners and the middle classes. Fans of active sports can go kayaking, wakeboarding, mountain-biking or paddleboarding.
Getting to Ukraine has never been easier, or indeed cheaper. Low-cost airlines, such as Ryanair and Wizzair have brought prices down significantly, and thanks to Euro 2012 the airport terminals are clean, spacious and modern. These days most Western nationalities are able to enter Ukraine without having to apply for a visa, making a short just as convenient as traveling to Prague, Paris or any other European destination.
There is also a far greater choice when it comes to accommodation. There’s everything from five-star luxury, three-star convenience, to Airbnb or hostels for students- something for every budget.
Ukraine is at a key moment in its history. While other countries seem to be focused on looking back, Ukraine is looking forward, with optimism. For the first time in living memory Ukraine is free, open and looking to the future. Everywhere things are changing. Discover the new Ukraine 🙂
