But reminders of another side of Iran is always just around the corner as modern and ultra-conservative seem to coexist everywhere you look.
One of the favorite hangout places of modern Iranians is Iranshahr Park in Tehran which boasts a very modern cultural center and the Paris-like bohemian atmosphere. But just down the street there is the former U.S. Embassy, shut down since the 1979 Islamic Revolution. As the two nations severed all ties, this was the place where dozens of embassy’s employees were kept hostage. Despite Iran’s recent deal with the U.S., the embassy is still closed and decorated with anti-U.S. graffiti and slogans.
As the West lifts sanctions which have been in place since 1979, many Iranians seem hungry for more change. So far the country is still criticized for severe violations of human rights and lack of freedoms.
But things are changing. Visa on arrival has recently been introduced and the country is now well connected by air. From Kyiv, Ukraine International Airlines has a direct flight, while several Turkish low costs fly from Lviv to Tehran via Istanbul. If political situation remains stable, all this will definitely translate into more tourists.
So far, being a foreigner in Iran means constant attention, and boundless hospitality.
As I take pictures of the former U.S. embassy, I am approached by a flock of youngsters who say hello and invite me for dinner to their parent’s house. In Iran this happens a lot. Being a woman in Islamic country means I am mostly spoken to by women. Talking to them means realizing how good they are at finding their way around the restrictive system. Foreigners are baffled by how much makeup many Iranian women wear, how skillfully they dress around the dress code and how virtually non-existent their mandatory hijab is. A lot of women drive their cars, date men, study and work.
Quran and Hafez
Like in Soviet days, no matter your beliefs, all must comply in keeping up the façade. Islam is the official religion of the country, but Iran has a small Christian and Jewish minority and all are free to practice their religion in private. Zoroastrianism, the pre-Islamic religion of Persia, is said to become more popular each day in Iran.
One proof is the growing popularity of Persepolis among Iranians. The ancient ceremonial capital, turned to ruin by Alexander the Great, was mostly attracting foreigners until Iranian visitors started outnumbering them. Locals not only come to marvel at impressive remains of grand palaces, columns and statues, but also to mark pre-Islamic holidays like Nowruz. The festival, also known as Iranian New Year, has been around for at least 3,000 years and is said to be frowned upon by the Islamic government.
A prominent pilgrimage site for devout Muslims lays just kilometers away in Shiraz. It is Shah Cheragh mirror mausoleum, the burial site of two slain brothers of 9th century Imam Reza. Visited by thousands of Muslims, it makes a perfect place for observing Islam in action. Very helpful young volunteers accompany foreigners inside to give explanations, and then drop them in the main prayer hall to soak up the atmosphere of tranquility.
Aside from the holy Quran, every Iranian should have a book of poems of Hafez at home, according to the popular saying. The 14th century poet is revered as a national hero and his burial site in Shiraz is a place for public readings, concerts, and even fortune-telling. One way to do it is to open a book randomly and read the first verse that catches your eye. Locals are happy to lend their copies and do the translation.
Aside from fortune-telling, Iranians improvise a lot of other kinds of public entertainment, since obtaining a censorship body’s permission for concerts and plays is difficult. Probably the most famous spot is under the grandest of Isfahan bridges – a 17th century Joubi. Hundreds gather here every evening to listen to old Iranian hits and folk songs, performed by professional and amateur artists. As with Hafez, Iranians are very eager for foreigners to grasp the meaning, so I gladly accept one old man’s suggestion to do some translation for me. As we part ways, he tells me of his hope that Iran will be an open society, like any other civilized nation, soon.
Yet, conservative Iran is quick to jump into the picture. One day later, a middle-aged woman in black chador approaches me on a busy Tehran street just to say it’s too bad that foreigners start coming. “They only bring AIDS, drugs and guns. We are better off sticking to our values,” she explains calmly, very matter of fact, and in good English. Without waiting for my reaction, she walks away, wrapping herself tighter in her black cloth.
Svitlana Tuchynska is a former Kyiv Post staff writer who can be reached at [email protected]
