Since the international company Imperial Tailoring entered the Ukrainian market 15 years ago, the list of their clients has grown to an impressive lineup that includes three Ukrainian presidents.
The company, run by an Indian family of 28 brothers and cousins, operates in seven post-Soviet countries.
The Ukrainian branch of Imperial Tailoring survived the turbulent times of economic crises and revolutions, managing to make their business prosper through the years. The secret lies in their adaptation to new circumstances and yet invariable dedication to high quality.
Steve Kriplani, 39, who manages the company in Ukraine, says that their suits can last for as long as 12 years.
“They are made with love,” Kriplani told the Kyiv Post.
Apart from suits, Imperial Tailoring offers casual clothing items, accessories and shoes. Their clients are mostly men who work in politics, business and diplomacy.
Family business
Kriplani’s relatives founded the tailoring company under a different name in Russia in the late ‘90s. One of his uncles worked in the textile business, and the family saw the potential to develop tailoring in newly independent post-Soviet countries that had unoccupied markets. Several years after Imperial Tailoring was founded, Kriplani joined the company’s first office in Moscow.
Kriplani comes from a big family that for four generations has run an array of businesses in India and internationally. He had his first taste of entrepreneurship early, helping his father with his automotive company in childhood, and tried out his first business idea at the age of 15.
After studying commerce, he was eager to join the family business. Kriplani started as a regular manager and was promoted to the head of the Ukrainian office in 2005, eight years after it opened.
Kriplani says that he took a liking to the country during business trips, long before moving here. “When I came for the first time, it felt like home,” he says. What he loves about Kyiv is that it’s not overcrowded and not too big, so it’s easy to combine work and family life.
At first, Imperial Tailoring mostly targeted foreigners based in post-Soviet countries. Kriplani says that local people didn’t really understand the value of bespoke tailoring at the moment.
However, as time went by, the company learned that foreigners come and go, so they shouldn’t be their core clientele. Imperial Tailoring started promoting the culture of individually-made clothes among the locals.
The company was growing and expanding throughout the post-Soviet area when the 2008 financial crisis hit its business.
“In business, there are always ups and downs,” Kriplani said. “That’s when you think how to grow.”
That was when Imperial Tailoring learned a new lesson yet again: rather than relying on several clients who had once ordered dozens of suits at a time, the company had to acquire a bigger clientele who would order fewer suits but do so on a regular basis.
Kriplani says that the company learns from every hardship and mistake. Crises actually have benefits. “A crisis cleans the market. Small fish leave.”
Throughout the years, Imperial Tailoring grew to have 13 offices in seven countries and has dressed seven presidents of different states including three from Ukraine: Leonid Kravchuk, Leonid Kuchma and Viktor Yushchenko. Indian Prime Minister Narendra Modi is also among their customers today.
Apart from well-known figures, the company’s Ukrainian branch has 1,900 regular customers. Kriplani says that 90% of new clients come for their clothing because of recommendations from others. “Everyone is a VIP for us,” Kriplani said.
Prioritizing quality
The success of Imperial Tailoring rests on the quality of the company’s products, Kriplani says, which they maintain in a rigorous and time-consuming process.
The company offers 100% bespoke suits, meaning they create a unique pattern based on measurements from each customer. Kriplani personally meets every client and takes 55 measurements from head to toe. When offering design and fabrics, he takes into account the client’s preferences, occupation and appearance.
The company offers 12,000 types of natural, high-grade fabrics made by top Italian and English brands. The list covers all kinds of colors and patterns, including some fancy options like ones with gold or diamond-enhanced stripes. It takes two fittings and around six weeks to complete the order. All suits are produced in either Italy or England and 80% of the work is done by hand.
A suit from Imperial Tailoring starts at $1,000 and costs up to $20,000 depending on the fabric choice. However, Kriplani says that it’s a smart investment, as their clothes last for years.
“We always use the best materials, real horn buttons, 100% silk threads,” he said. “When you wear it you will feel different.”
Next goal: Zelensky
While it’s challenging to promote dress code culture, Kriplani believes it’s an important principle. Although formalwear has given way to more casual dress in some occupations, Kriplani says that will never be the case for the business and political communities.
“First impressions are lasting impressions,” he says. “How you represent yourself, people will make their mind up on that.”
And in that regard, Kriplani is not happy with the outfit choices of Ukrainian lawmakers. He says they should look up to their colleagues in the United Kingdom, where until 2017 male lawmakers wore a mandatory tie and still adhere to the business dress code.
“There’s a strong concept they follow,” he says. “This is respect to your country.”
Kriplani says that Imperial Tailoring always aspires to get better and win new hearts in society’s upper echelons. Their next goal is to make a suit for President Volodymyr Zelensky.
“My aim is always to make the first person good-looking,” he said. “I think we will find ways for that.”
