You're reading: Financial Times: What pagans, Putin and the Volga tell us about Russia

In Stalingrad, one of Vasily Grossman’s two epic novels centred on the second world war’s most destructive battle, a particularly powerful passage depicts exhausted Soviet soldiers arriving at the River Volga and washing themselves in its waters. “This mass baptism before the terrible battle for freedom . . . may have been as fateful a moment in the country’s history as the mass baptism carried out in Kiev a thousand years earlier, on the banks of the Dnieper,” Grossman wrote.

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