The simple black cover of “Fashion Directory of Ukraine” is hiding a rich palette of stories about the visionary minds developing one of the most vibrant fields in the country today.
“Ukrainian fashion industry is a complicated, exciting and dynamic phenomenon,” reads the book’s introduction.
The new publication is the creation of Anton Yeremenko, fashion editor of the Harper’s Bazaar Ukraine magazine, and fashion historian and critic Zoya Zvynyatskivska. It brings together the paths to success of 92 key players, from designers and photographers to retailers and catalysts.
The industry is on the move, with its most successful representatives making international headlines and earning the admiration of the world’s top taste-makers.
“Fashion Directory of Ukraine” is the first publication that captures the state of modern Ukrainian fashion and systematizes its leaders. In Ukrainian with English translation, the book was published on Oct. 28 in 300 copies.
Since it was funded by the state Ukrainian Cultural Foundation, with a grant of Hr 492,000 ($17,500), the first print run will be distributed for free to leading fashion experts, local libraries and cultural institutions. But because of high demand, the authors plan another reprint in January, which will be available for purchase in bookstores for at least Hr 330 ($12). In the meantime, all stories from the publication are available in both Ukrainian and English online at www.fashiondirectory.com.ua.
Fashion preserved
Yeremenko came up with the idea in 2014, when he was traveling and taking portraits of celebrities at Fashion Weeks abroad. He wanted to compile the same series with Ukrainian fashion stars. However, portraits alone wouldn’t have communicated the diversity and potential of the industry, so he decided to add stories to accompany the visuals.
“We are doing international business, and the general public likely doesn’t know about or see it, so I really wanted to show and convey it,” Yeremenko told the Kyiv Post.
For the project, he teamed up with Zvynyatskivska, who has been exploring and writing about Ukrainian fashion for over 30 years, and, naturally, was eager to join.
“I am interested in the past, its museumification, reproduction in books, so that it is preserved,” Zvynyatskivska told the Kyiv Post.
The two recorded 100 hours of interviews with key players who have remarkable achievements, including in 2020, to keep the book fresh. The authors didn’t limit themselves to designers exclusively, but included people with other roles in local fashion development.
They ended up with 92 leaders divided into seven categories and same-name book chapters: designers, explorer designers (groundbreakers), media (journalists and editors), photographers/stylists, managers, retailers, and catalysts (bloggers and other inspirers).
Profiles include a short career summary, principles they follow and what they’re known for, as well as a timeline of their path’s milestones and photographs.
The designers section features some of the most acclaimed Ukrainian creators from vyshyvanka (embroidered shirt/dress) guru Vita Kin to the inventors of world-famous “demi-denims” jeans Anton and Ksenia Schnaider.
The list also features hat designer Ruslan Baginskiy, whose pieces are favored by Madonna, Gigi and Bella Hadid, the Kardashians and many more influencers and top models. The designer presents his collections in Paris and sells his garments in 150 stores worldwide. In the book, he says that his ultimate goal is for the word “hat” to be associated with his brand’s name.
There’s also Svitlana Bevza, who is the first Ukrainian resident of New York Fashion Work and the finalist of the Vogue Talents project that awards the most promising international designers. The book describes her as famous in Ukraine and the world as a minimalist designer, whose clothes are sold at the biggest online luxury retailer Net-a-Porter.
Some of the explorer designers are Kostiantyn Kofta, who uses 3D modeling to manufacture surrealist leather bags and backpacks, and Yasia Khomenko, who promotes upcycling, experiments with colorful prints and puts out spectacular shows.
The managers section lists founders of Ukrainian Fashion Week Iryna Danylevska and Volodymyr Nechyporuk, among others. The two, according to the book, formed the modern fashion landscape in Ukraine by creating a pret-a-porter weekly event and developing an infrastructure for it.
“Fashion Directory of Ukraine” is a new publication by Anton Yeremenko, fashion editor of the Harper’s Bazaar Ukraine magazine, and fashion historian and critic Zoya Zvynyatskivska, that brings together the stories of 92 industry leaders, from designers and photographers to retailers and catalysts. (Kostyantyn Chernichkin)
Another fascinating section, catalysts, spotlights Synchrodogs, a duo of photo artists Tania Shcheglova and Roman Noven. Throughout their 12-year career, the duo cooperated with international brands including Louis Vuitton, Burberry, Kenzo and Swarovski and held 15 personal exhibitions around the world.
The directory was published by the ArtHuss publishing house, known for the production of art books. The 192-page publication is a stylish edition with a minimalist design, meant to grab attention with its simplicity.
“Designed in the format of a coffee table book, it’s itself an aesthetic work,” Zvynyatskivska said.
Opportunities and contrasts
Ukrainian fashion has grown to become a full-fledged creative industry.
Zvynyatskivska and Yeremenko call it an industry of opportunities because of how fast a brand can go from foundation to presenting collections at the world’s fashion capitals. They also write that it’s an industry of contrasts that combines conservative glamor and new conceptual fashion. “Today, the Ukrainian fashion industry is a free creative laboratory where any experiments are permitted,” reads the book’s introduction.
According to Zvynyatskivska, social media gave the Ukrainian fashion industry greater exposure. Fashion weeks and awards also helped. Yeremenko, meanwhile, says that the Mercedes-Benz Kyiv Fashion Days contributed to local designers’ understanding of how to sell to the international market.
But the industry still struggles to reach Ukrainians. The majority of locals prefer cheap fast-fashion brand imports from China and Turkey. Ukrainian-made garments, for some reason, are still perceived as less worthy than whatever is brought from abroad.
“It is extremely difficult to make Ukrainian fashion popular,” Zvynyatskivska said.
But as the COVID‑19 pandemic restricted traveling and spurred the trend to support local businesses, Ukrainian brands have new chances to reach the local consumer. According to Zvynyatskivska, the audience is slowly shifting towards appreciating individuality over mass-produced items.
“People need a new quality and Ukrainian designers can give it,” Zvynyatskivska said.
