CHERNIVTSI – Some 40 kilometers from the Romanian border, it feels that the town of Chernivtsi ended up on the Ukrainian territory by pure luck.
Throughout its 600-year history, the city – where Ukrainians, Russians, Romanians, Poles, Jews and Moldovans lived peacefully side-by-side – has been constantly passed around from one ruler to another.
Diversity has always been essential to the town’s character, resulting in beautiful architecture and abundant cultural heritage.
To name one thing that makes a trip worthwhile, it would be Yury Fedkovych National University.
Added to the UNESCO heritage list in June, the former residence of Bukovinian and Dalmatian Metropolitans was built by Czech architect Josef Hlavka in 1875.
Home to 15 educational departments, the university also has a seminary, monastery and a garden.
Each detail of the university is astonishing in its complexity and harmony, be it the mosaic roof, domes or gardens.
But, of course, the splendor of Chernivtsi doesn’t end here.
Often called “Little Vienna” by tourists, Chernivtsi became a part of the Austrian Empire in 1775, hence the reference.
Originally only a small settlement, it suddenly became an Eastern gateway to the large empire and therefore received plenty of attention from the top-notch architects of the time.
Compairing the city with Vienna, however, doesn’t do this place justice.
Indeed, with a rainbow of variously designed buildings – some in good shape and some falling apart – and little streets that cut through the corners and hills of Chernivtsi, the city radiates a magical vibe of coziness of its own.
If you’ve been in Ukraine long enough, you probably have noticed the excessive number of gray buildings, and I don’t blame you if you hate them.
But that doesn’t hold true for Chernivtsi – just take a look at the main square of the city, where colors range from salmon pink to bright blue.
Residents say that they kept the original color of the buildings as they are proud of their city’s quirky appearance.
Now home to some 300,000 people, Chernivtsi is a city that seems to celebrate every single day.
Since 2004 a trumpeter dressed in a Hutsul costume goes to the very top of the city council building at noon to play a tune from the Ukrainian song “Marichka,” written by Chernivtsi poet Mykhailo Tkach.
To unveil the wonders of the Carpathian city, take a free guided tour on Sunday sponsored by the Chernivtsi government.
They will take you through the streets, which hold many surprises – from a Turkish well next to a Jewish market, to a wrought iron three-wheeled bike and an Armenian church.
It’s best to see everything on foot because the town has not been built for cars, and you’d only add to the already-choking exhaust fumes while struggling to drive up the many steep hills.
Although Chernivtsi is the capital city of the region, it doesn’t have high office buildings, making it a nice get-away from the business-oriented hustle and bustle of many modern cities.
Lavish Austrian-inspired architecture and a nice coffee with a strudel make it feel like you are in Central Europe.
Locals recommend coffee at the Teatralna Square, known for the gorgeous 1904 theater building and a local version of the Hollywood Walk of Fame, featuring prominent residents such as singer Sofia Rotaru and accordionist Yan Tabachnyk.
For the best strudel, head to the vibrant Kobylyanska Street, where little cafes mingle with many bookstores and souvenir shops.
Another multicultural feature of this town is the use of languages.
The street names are written in English alongside Ukrainian, which doesn’thappen in many places in Ukraine, including Kyiv.
With a convenient train schedule and a 14-hour ride, it is a fine weekend getaway for Kyivans.
Kyiv Post staff writer Nataliya Horban can be reached at [email protected]
