I often hear people draw parallels between Kyiv and Paris, for example, calling Andriyivsky Uzviz “Kyiv’s Montmartre.” And recently, I heard the city has its own “Latin Quarter.” The latter turned out to be the area enveloped by Chervonoarmiyska, Zhylianska and Saksahanskoho streets.
I often hear people draw parallels between Kyiv and Paris, for example, calling Andriyivsky Uzviz “Kyiv’s Montmartre.” And recently, I heard the city has its own “Latin Quarter.” The latter turned out to be the area enveloped by Chervonoarmiyska, Zhylianska and Saksahanskoho streets.
The reason for such a nickname is that, at the end of the 19th Century, the local population consisted mainly of lodging students, just like in the “Latin Quarter” in Paris, who attended Saint Volodymyr University, currently known as the Kyiv National Taras Shevchenko University. The busiest street of the district at the time was Saksahanskoho (formerly Zhandarmska and MariyinskoBlahoveshchenska), but latterly it gave up its lead to Chervonoarmiyska. But then, it could rival even Khreshchatyk.
The street that originated in the middle of a wasteland was built up with posh lodging houses. They had all distinctive architectural elements of the 1920s, now unfortunately gone – balconies, front porches and yards barred with massive gates that were usually locked for the night. The Kyiv neoRenaissance houses were constructed so that you could slip into one yard, breeze through passages between neighboring yards and pop up several quarters away. Now it’s a long forgotten rarity that has given way to Sovietstyle buildings and modern buildings of glass.
If you were to make a trip down the street 20 years ago, you could have taken a tram in order to give our excursion a touch of originality. But trams are no more running along Chervonoarmiyska, nor Saksahanskoho streets. Thus let’s start our walk from the Olympic Stadium that is near Palats Sportu and follow the street as far as Ploshcha Peremohy, where the Circus and Ukraina shopping center are located (I know, it’s a long way, but it’s worth it).
Our starting point, the stadium, was originally designed for the 1980 Olympics and in 2005 hosted the Eurovision competition. Just a few steps from it you will come across the crumbling Cinema House, once a major gathering place of Ukrainian cinema masters and film enthusiasts, still occasionally hosting festivals and screenings. However, both inside and outside it makes a pitiful sight.
The Museum of Cinema Workers is located not far away, at 24 Saksahanskoho. A few steps farther, at the crossing of Saksahanskoho and Shota Rustaveli, is Shota Rustaveli Park, created with help of the Georgian community in Kyiv. The place is commonly known as a “Rock Garden” for its granite gates and benches.
The street received one of its former names – MariyinskoBlahoveshchenska, after the church of the same name that no longer exists and whose site is occupied by house No. 64. The street’s ancient name perished along with the church.
Among other sights to be seen along the way is the Institute of Occupational Health, located at No. 75. It has been used for medical purposes since 1913 when it accommodated the Red Cross, which played an active role in the life of the frontline Kyiv during the World War I.
The place that amazes me most is the museum in No. 97 commemorating prominent Ukrainian artists, who once lived on the street: poetess and playwright Lesya Ukrainka, composer Mykola Lysenko (his monument is standing near the Opera Theater), actor, playwright and theater director Panas Saksahanskiy (who gave the street its present name), and playwright Mykhailo Starytskiy. The latter is the author of the popular comedy “Za Dvoma Zaytsyamy” (“To Kill Two Birds with One Stone”). A bronze statue of its two main characters stands at the top of Andriyivskiy Uzviz.
The museum complex overall looks like a window into the past – several low houses with a flowerbed surrounded by benches practically drowns in the fragrance of flamboyant vegetation. The nearby building is the Polish House, where you can study the Polish language and get updated on upcoming cultural events.
Like dozens of years ago, Saksahanskoho still offers lots of places for shopping and eating out. The list includes designer clothes shops like Westmont, Helen Marlen and Raffinade. And if your pet needs a designer outfit as well, you can pop for it into the Dog & Cat Boutique.
If you’re ready to outfit your flat as well as yourself, furniture and house design shops are there too. Sia and Kvitkova Vanil, lingerie at Lingerie S, furs, electronics, tea, coffee, and whatnot.
By the way, coffee houses and sushi bars (I counted up to five including yet another Murakami) are innumerable here. In case you don’t take caffeine you will surely enjoy fresh fruit and vegetable drinks at Fresh Factory. But if you feel like having something more nourishing, drop by Spanish restaurant La Paella, Belgian brasserie Belle Vue, Schnitsel Haus or Myslyvets (Hunter). And at the end of the day waiting for you is a preparty bar Chocolate or less pretentious pub Sinoval.
Museum of Cinema Workers (24 Saksahanskoho);
Museum of Prominent Ukrainian Artists (97 Saksahanskoho, 220-5752);
Polish House (99 Saksahanskoho);
Westmont (48 Chervonoarmiyska, 287-0338);
Helen Marlen (29 Saksahanskoho, 287-6083);
Raffinade (65 Saksahanskoho, 501-3215);
Dog&cat Boutique (10 Saksahanskoho);
Sia (117 Saksahanskoho, 223-4422);
Kvitkova Vanil (13/42 Saksahanskoho, 287-5243);
Lingerie S (55 Saksahanskoho, 284-3373);
Belle Vue (7 Saksahanskoho, 220-8780);
Chocolate (8 Saksahanskoho, 289-0194);
La Paella (83 Saksahanskoho, 289-5734);
Murakami (120B Saksahanskoho, 538-0770);
Schnitsel Haus (51 Saksahanskoho, 286-8509);
Myslyvets (147/5 Saksahanskoho, 236-3735);
Fresh Factory (120B Saksahanskoho);
Coffee-House (53/80 Saksahanskoho, 289-2573);
Dim Kavy (20A Saksahanskoho, 246-7458);
Svit Chayu (13/42 Saksahanskoho, 287-2272);
Sinoval (40 Saksahanskoho, 289-5475).
