CHERKASY, Ukraine — The city of Cherkasy is an offbeat tourist destination. But one of its entrances across the waters of the huge Kremenchuk Reservoir alone is well worth the trip.
The approach is a 13-kilometer dam across Ukraine’s biggest reservoir formed from the Dnipro River, where breathtaking views on both sides of the road open up.
The dam leads to the capital of Cherkasy Oblast, a city of 270,000 people located about 190 kilometers southeast of Kyiv. Though it has no nationally famous sights, Cherkasy is a great destination for a peaceful weekend escape with its parks, tasty food and a few surprising attractions.
Once a center for Cossack regiments in the 17th century, Cherkasy has long been known for its historical significance.
In 1962, with the opening of the Azot plant, one of the leading producers of nitrogen fertilizers in Ukraine, the city has grown into a local industrial center. It is sometimes called the city of chemists and even has a Chemists Park, which is thankfully full of nature and not chemicals.
In recent years, Cherkasy has been developing infrastructurally, with new-generation apartment complexes emerging and creative businesses following suit. In the meantime, the local authorities have announced an ambitious plan to make Cherkasy one of the most convenient cities for living in Ukraine.
Parks and views
Cherkasy is a small city that can be explored in its entirety over a weekend.
There’s a Khreshchatyk Street, though it’s not as distinguished as the one in Kyiv. Cherkasy’s main street, Shevchenko Boulevard, is parallel to the shoreline and crosses the entire city.
It is best to come to Cherkasy in spring or summer when everything is green and blooming in the city’s numerous parks.
Travelers should start with the Pahorb Slavy (Hill of Glory), which offers fascinating panoramic views of the Dnipro River and a park called the Valley of Roses.
Aside from the views, the Hill of Glory is of historic importance. The World War II memorial complex with its 10-meter monument is a place where more than 3,000 soldiers were buried.
Right from the hill, visitors can go down to the Valley of Roses, a small park near the Dnipro River, where there are actually no roses, despite the name. Here, tourists will find a large sundial shaped like a bird.
Strolling along the Dnipro embankment is especially beautiful after sunset, when the horizon becomes invisible and the water merges with the sky, creating the impression of endless space. In the evening, the pier and the river port look magical in the light of lanterns.
One of the entrances to the city of Cherkasy is a 13-kilometer dam across the waters of the huge Kremenchuk Reservoir formed from the Dnipro River. (Vsevolod Zhovtenko)
Other natural sights worth exploring are the large Sosnovyi Bir (Pine Forest) Park and the Cathedral Park, which surrounds one of Ukraine’s biggest Orthodox churches, St. Michael’s Cathedral, which can seat up to 12,000 people.
To have a better understanding of the area, travelers should visit Cherkasy Regional Museum of Local Lore. The museum’s exposition fills 30 halls of the building’s three floors and offers invaluable insights into the history and nature of the oblast. The museum is open Wednesday through Sunday. A ticket for adults costs Hr 30 ($1).
Buddhist temple
Cherkasy is home to Ukraine’s most likely only Buddhist temple, which happens to be among the largest in Europe.
The temple’s development was funded by a local Buddhist upon return from his trip to Laos.
The temple is called White Lotus. Visitors have an opportunity to explore various artifacts brought there from Tibet, including the sculptures of two warriors welcoming guests at the entrance and a 300-year-old bell, which rises on top of the structure.
Aside from being a center for people who practice Buddhism, the temple also serves as an educational and recreational hub, offering all kinds of classes including Thai boxing, kung fu, yoga, breathing practices, the basics of healing and the art of tea ceremony.
Eateries
Just like many other small cities in Ukraine, Cherkasy has low prices compared to popular tourist destinations like Kyiv, Lviv and Odesa.
However, the quality of the service and products is still on top here.
A margherita pizza from one of the locals’ favorite restaurants, Faro Del Porto, costs just Hr 85 ($3), while a red perch dish is Hr 185 ($7). Specializing in seafood, the eatery makes a great spot for a tasty dinner by the Dnipro River.
The coffee culture has been growing in Cherkasy. The city’s Fabryka Kavy (Coffee Factory) cafe roasts beans for its own use — a rare practice in provincial Ukraine. Cherkasy’s most famous coffee shops are the Sho Tam (What’s Up) chain, which offers sandwiches for Hr 30 ($1) and coffee starting from Hr 15 ($0.5), and Cult Coffee, a four-location chain, which has even outgrown its home city and opened a coffee shop in Kyiv.
Transport, accommodation
A trip by car from Kyiv’s Kharkivska metro station takes about two and a half hours. It’s also possible to travel by train — ticket prices start at Hr 150 ($6) and the trip takes nearly four hours. Buses to Cherkasy run every day and cost Hr 240 ($9) on average.
Visitors can stay at local hotels or book an apartment through the Airbnb application. Prices for hotel rooms start at Hr 500 ($18) per night, whereas Airbnb apartments start at Hr 555 ($20) per night.
