Nobel treats TUCC members to its tasty menu
This year The Ukrainian Connoisseur Club had its Christmas meeting at Nobel restaurant, which already scored five stars by its judgment in 2004, and attempted to repeat its success in the pre-holiday weeks this year. Myself, I was quite curious to visit Nobel again, as the last time I’d been there was when the restaurant had just opened, which was at least four years ago, and I wondered how much it had changed since then.
From first glance it looked similar to the way I remembered it – the same minimalist interior in white and brown shades, original lanterns on stems sticking out of the wall, and its main original feature of glass partitions with water flowing through them. I still remember parties held at Nobel in the beginning – the place was extremely crowded then, with still more people willing to get in standing out front. Myself, I was there as a party reporter, and was never able to understand it – I’d never agree to queue just to enter a club – but of course, that’s because Nobel was at the time a new hot venue, a fusion restaurant, turning into a dance club in the evenings, attracting all the city’s main partygoers. But with new clubs and restaurants opening all the time, it could hardly maintain its “hot ticket” status for long. So I really wondered what Nobel was up to at present – was it living up to its fashionable restaurant reputation?
The TUCC meeting at Nobel was an unusual one, and not only because it was a Christmas celebration – it was the first time that the Chairman of the Club, Terry Pickard, was absent, and Paul Niland had to fill in for him. As a part of his opening speech, Paul announced a contest for Christmas carols to be held among the guests that evening – each table was to present his own, and the winner was to be awarded a bottle of Irish whiskey. However, that was for later, while for the time being everyone was more concerned with the culinary part of the night.
As we were told by the manager of the restaurant, the first dish, Roll Sumethai, was being served just as soon as the sushi masters were preparing each portion, to ensure it was served as fresh as possible, and that’s why it was arriving so slowly. I could understand the point about freshness, but still, waiting for my dish while other people were already done with theirs, I couldn’t help getting annoyed. When I finally got my roll – six pieces adorned with colorful flying fish caviar, I had to ask one of my neighbors at the table to pass me the soy sauce, as there was just one small bottle for six people. As for the sushi itself, it was decent, though I didn’t especially enjoy the black seeds it was covered with, which were rather tasteless. Still, the Italian Pinot Crigio 2006 served with it was quite appropriate for fresh fish.
Going to some sleek and costly European restaurant, I never expect an exactly filling meal, but contrary to my expectations, portions at Nobel were very generous. The second dish we were served was a salad with hot meat Carpaccio. Once again it took some waiting – our table was clearly one of the last being served – but this time I was much more pleased with what I received. A salad of arugula, cherry tomatoes and mozzarella, covered with the most delicious Carpaccio sprinkled with parmesan was simply wonderful, and Valpolicella Classico Tommasi 2005 from Italy, only helped feel its taste even more.
When the third course, Bouillabaisse Soup, was being served, I observed that the plates were different – some guests were getting smaller portions than others. Did it mean they didn’t have enough of the same soup plates, I wondered? Anyway, the soup itself, made according to a Sardinian Recipe, was a well-balanced seafood concoction with a big mussel, a Coquille Saint Jacques, prawns and a langoustine. Hardly hungry anymore, I braced myself, knowing that Marble steak was still coming (and I wanted to try it and enjoy it), and waited, sipping on the Chardonney Toricella 2005 from Italy, that came with the soup.
The Marble steak was served on an original plate, with its garnish, risotto, placed on a smaller plate attached to it. The steak was all you’d want it to be – grilled medium rare, juicy and dressed with creamy tomato sauce – it went perfectly with the white mushroom risotto, which was one of the best ones I’ve ever had. Red Chateau Sovignon Reserva 2005 from Chile complemented the dish well.
The dessert arrived in the form of a big cake with “TUCC” and “Merry Christmas” written on it. The tiramisu with cheesecake was light, soft and mildly sweet – just as I like cakes to be – and the white flakes covering it made me think of snow falling behind the window. The Chateau de Bealon 2002 from France that accompanied the dessert didn’t impress me much, so I preferred a cappuccino with my cake.
As I was getting ready to leave, a lady who set next to me observed that to her service is of utmost importance – she would return to places with even mediocre food, simply for the attention she was getting there. It wasn’t exactly the case with Nobel, but for my part, I believe it’s simply not fair to the talented chef and sommelier (who obviously tried their best), if the not so good service diminishes their efforts. After all, getting well-trained staff is surely easier than talented food and wine masters, and so this drawback would hopefully to be corrected soon.
Nobel (65 Chervonoarmiyska, 238-6971). Open 11 a.m. till the last customer
English menu: Yes
English-speaking staff: Yes
Average meal: Hr 250
