Head to the new bar Klyuch for a reasonably priced menu and friendly atmosphere
Though Klyuch (Key) bar opened just a couple of months ago, it had already been officially closed by July 14. No, you didn’t mishear me – I really do mean “closed.” You see, Klyuch is no ordinary bar – you can freely enter it during daytime, but starting at 6 p.m., the welcome doors are closed, and to get in you have to either open them with your own key, or ring the bell. It’s a special place for special people, as they say, so why not become one of them? Lucky enough to get the “magical” key right before the “closing day,” I have been frequenting the bar ever since.
One of the three outfits of Eric’s New Family, Klyuch, like most places managed by Eric Aigner, is hidden from strangers’ eyes. You’re unlikely to just walk into it accidentally – it has to be found. However, I’ll make it easier on you: when you reach building No. 5A on Basseyna street, enter through the archway between Fellini and Tally Weijl clothing stores and turn left. After you get through the door, a steep flight of stairs will lead down to the basement, where the bar is located. Once you’ve reached the bottom, you can relax – you’re safe and surrounded with friends.
The interior is also typical Eric-style – brick walls and wooden tables and chairs, with the only decor elements being installations made of keys and joke inscriptions on the walls, such as: “Gather five Hennessey caps, get one beer free,” “Free beer tomorrow,” as well as a samurai sword hanging on the wall behind the bar, apparently intended for punishing the naughtiest visitors.
If you want to have a secluded conversation, take a seat at the back room, but if you wish to be in the middle of all the fun, hang out by the bar supplied with a TV that usually broadcasts sports tournaments. The atmosphere at Klyuch is that of a friendly gathering, with most of the guests clearly regulars, familiar with the owners as well as the hospitable Eric himself, who hangs out at the bar most nights, attending to his visitors.
But of course, while the atmosphere is what defines a good bar, its assortment of drinks and food is no less significant. The first thing that will pleasantly surprise you is the prices – Hr 8 for a 0.5 liter glass of Chenivihivske Bile, or Hr 10 for Staropramen. There are other kinds of beer, of course, including Stella Artois and Corona. The bar menu also lists about five Georgian wines, sold per glass from Hr 8, and a typical array of cognac, whisky, tequila, rum and other hard alcohols. Keep in mind that while there are no cocktails listed on the bar chart, all the popular ones are available – as long as the necessary components are present at the bar. I prefer browsing through the list of cocktails, looking to try something new, but apparently Klyuch expects experienced drinkers, who know exactly what they want, and are even able to instruct the bartender on how to make a certain drink if necessary.
The food menu is not particularly extensive, but broad enough for a bar. It’s clear that the dishes were chosen carefully to suit the tastes of its visitors, which include locals as well as guests from around the world. Of what I was able to try there so far – and mind you it’s after all a bar, so I drink there more often than I eat – was cream of mushroom soup (Hr 14) and steak filet with fresh salad (Hr 38). Without exaggeration, I can state that I savored both to the last bit. A big bowl of a steaming hot, creamy concoction of finely grinded champignons was a pleasure to the mouth, and a comfort to my – at the time – slightly sore throat. The helping was also a very generous one – I barely finished the soup, as it easily sufficed for a whole meal. I had steak filet my first time at Klyuch – I was truly hungry that evening, and having spent over 10 minutes browsing through the menu, I decided I felt like some nicely fried meat. What I received was an enormous plate covered with steak and a heap of chopped tomatoes and cucumbers. The delicious and juicy meat, finished with strips of crunchy bacon, was exactly what I wanted it to be, and a salad of chopped fresh veggies went perfectly with it. However, once again, hungry as I was, I simply couldn’t eat all of it – the portion was big enough for a full grown man. Next time I feel like a meal at Klyuch, I definitely want to try the fettuccini with chicken and mushrooms – I’ve seen it served to my friends, and the dish both looked and smelled so delicious, that I – a big pasta fan – could hardly resist. But of course, there are many more interesting items on the menu: chicken noodle soup, mozzarella with tomatoes, Greek salad, carpaccio, an assortment of fried sausages, pepper steak with fresh vegetables, pasta bolognese and carbonara, and several desserts. So, I believe you get it by now – make sure to get that key as soon as you can!
Klyuch (5A Basseyna). Open 10 a.m. till the last customer
English menu: No
English-speaking staff: Yes
Average meal: Hr 50
