The heart of Kyiv Days is on the city's famous cobbled slope
Kyiv started out 10 years ago as an impromptu street fair on the city’s enchanting Andriyivsky Uzviz. Today, this homey event has grown into an organized event, boasting a long list of fairs, exhibits, sports, concerts and the ubiquitous fireworks celebration.
The Kyiv Days celebration, held each year on the last weekend of May, has become a citywide event drawing hundreds of thousands of visitors from around the capital and the nation.
Rock concerts, folk dancing, karaoke, sailing, crafts, hot air balloons, art shows – this year’s events schedule does seem to have something for everybody.
But at Kyiv Days, like Ukraine in general, it is often the unexpected events that leave lasting images.
Vernisage
The Vernisage fair on Andriyivsky Uzviz is the most likely place to be surprised by the unexpected – whether it is bumping into an old pal you haven’t seen for ages, listening to a great street band or buying that batik scarf.
A bit more stylish and artistic than mainstream Khreshchatyk, Andriyivsky offers just the right ambiance for people‑watching in the endless stream of humanity flowing up and down the cobbled hill.
Andriyivsky is just 850 meters long, but during Kyiv Days peak, one up‑and‑down stroll may last several hours. Falling into the right rhythm with the rest of the pedestrians helps avoid being pushed and squeezed too much.
The fair starts at 10 a.m., but it’s a good idea to come early if you are really interested in shopping for gifts. If you burn out early, there are plenty of nearby places to seek refuge. Find a bench in the lush park above the park or take the steep trek up to Panorama Cafe for a view of the Left Bank and the Dnipro River.
Historical re‑enactment
Andriyivsky is also the place to witness Ukraine’s historical re‑enactment society. On May 25, there will be a fencing tournament near the Ukrainian History Museum. The competitors, using handcrafted weapons and wearing armor representing a specific historical epoch, compete against each for victory – and honor, of course.
This just isn’t for show. The competitions are taken quite seriously by the participants.
In pure Ukrainian fashion, the time of the event isn’t announced until a few hours before the competition, so it’s best to track down someone dressed like a knight – in high boots and cuirass. The gangs of knights, Old Rus warriors, Scottish ministrels and stunning maidens from all epochs will no doubt be milling around the foot of Andriyivsky where it crosses Borychiv Tik street. Fencing exhibitions will be held on Saturday, May 25, and Sunday, May 26, but unlike the tournament, these are just for show, and anyone can take part.
Evening magic
In the morning, the holiday is just warming up. By afternoon, the crowds and commercialism are oppressive. But during the holiday, evenings on Andriyivsky are exquisite.
The setting sun splashes the buildings with gold; idle crowds dissipate; and strange mysterious figures appear. A veritable shamanic act commences in the garden around the Ukrainian History Museum – the former pagan worship grounds of pre‑Christian Kyivan Rus. This is the only time of the year when dozens of drummers from all over Ukraine and neighboring states meet for a grandiose jam session. If you have a drum don’t hesitate to join in.
All kinds of ethnic percussions – from bongos to Irish drums and tamborines, merge in a pulsating rhythm. A song is born between the strong palms and taut drum skin. It grows, gaining momentum, sometimes amplified with real human voices or some half‑forgotten folk instruments. It culminates, then vanishes. The silence lasts for a short while until someone steps in with a new rhythm.
If you don’t play an instrument, you can enter a ritual dance under the stars. The drumming session lasts long into the night, long after the Vernisage ends.
