Visit the capital for a few days and see all of its best sights
A few years ago, I suddenly realized how many difficulties and responsibilities come with living in Kyiv. It happened when lots of my relatives and friends came to visit me. And the problem was not in having to receive them all, but in having to give them all city tours of our beautiful capital.
Taking into account how spread out the city is and the fact that the main places of interest are scattered all over Kyiv, it became difficult for me to pick a proper route. However, having spent some time with the map of Kyiv in an attempt to make up a list of must-sees, I decided to add a number of cafes and restaurants to the program to keep my friends refreshed and nourished. So if you find yourself needing to conduct a city tour for guests, here’s an optimal way to show them the capital in just a few days.
Day one: from University to Maidan
I suggest starting your city walk at the Universytet metro station, located on Taras Shevchenko Boulevard. Nowadays it’s one of the most prestigious districts, studded with institutes and universities, yet in the beginning of the 19th century, it was one of the least populated. On the hills, along which you’ll walk down to Khreshchatyk, peasants used to shepherd herds of cattle and goats. Walking down the boulevard on your right you’ll see the botanical gardens, which are a nice quiet place to take a break from the city noise.
After five minutes of walking, on your left you’ll see Volodymyrskiy Cathedral, built in Byzantine style. Its domes have recently been restored and painted golden, in accordance with the original design of 1883. The cathedral was saved from destruction twice: once during Soviet rule it was made into an Anti-religious museum, which kept it from being destroyed, like many other churches, and once during World War II it was saved by the Nazi occupants, who de-mined the building, after it was mined by the Soviet army, like all occupied buildings.
Leaving the cathedral and heading farther, you’ll find yourselves in front of Taras Shevchenko Park, which is a hangout place for students of Taras Shevchenko National University. You can see the two buildings of this university, yellow and red, on the two sides of the park. Just opposite the red building, on the other side of the park, are the Russian Art and Khanenko Art museums.
Walking across the park and down the boulevard, you’ll find yourself on Bessarabska Ploshcha, which is connected to Kyiv’s most central avenue – Khreshchatyk. Bessarabska Ploshcha, which houses the most expensive food market in Kyiv, has always been a place for holding fairs and a meeting point for traders from all over Ukraine. Now in the buildings surrounding the square you can find all kinds of fast-foods, cafes, restaurants, tea houses, clubs, and shops. Besides, if you want to go shopping in Kyiv, that’s also the place for you to start – just walk along Khreshchatyk towards Maidan Nezalezhnosti, and you’ll find plenty of stores to visit on your way.
Interestingly, just some 60 years ago, Khreshchatyk didn’t look a bit like it does now. During World War II it was razed to the ground, and later rebuilt anew, so that all the buildings standing along the street represent Stalinist Empire architecture. Walking along Khreshchatyk, you’ll come to Kyiv’s central square, Maidan Nezalezhnosti, which has lately become the common place for all kinds of political rallies. As for the modern design of Maidan (it was renovated at the end of the 90s), many citizens would argue about it being tasteless and kitsch, yet they continue to meet there to chat over a beer, or, in the summer, to get refreshed by the fountains. The tall statue you can see on Maidan – a high column with a Ukrainian girl on top – symbolizes the country’s independence; on the other side you can see the glass cupolas of the underground shopping mall Globus, and right beside the fountains stand the reconstructed Pechersk Gates with the archangel Michael (the city’s protector) on top. Kyiv’s major post office, where you can also make phone calls, faxes and use the internet, is also located on Maidan.
Where to eat:
O’Panas (10 Tereshenkivska, 235-2132).
Pervak (2 Rognidynska, 235-0952).
Il Patio (5A Bessarabska, 246-4327).
Docker ABC (15 Khreshchatyk, 278-1717).
Nouvelle (15 Khreshchatyk, 279-5761).
Day two: from Yevropeyska Ploshcha to Lavra
Leaving this busy district, I advise you to go farther through Yevropeyska Ploshcha and up, past the National Philharmonic of Ukraine, which will be on your left, to the Druzhby Narodiv Arc. Near the Arc, which is dedicated to the friendship of the Ukrainian and Russian nations, you can see a perfect panorama of Podil (old city) and the Dnipro quay. The park area that encircles the Arc spreads as far as the Arsenalna metro station, where our route is heading. Walking through the beautiful and shady lanes you’ll cross the so-called Bridge of Lovers, go past Lobanovskiy Stadium, and find yourselves in Mariyinskiy Park.
In the center of the park you’ll see Mariyinskiy Palace, which was built upon the wishes of Elisabeth the Great, the Russian empress, and finished only before the visit of the future Emperor Pavel and his wife Mary, after whom the palace was then named. After the first visit of the emperor, the palace became tightly connected with royalty, and after the revolution, with other political organizations. Long before the Dynamo Stadium was built, there was a garden of roses and a lake in its place, which was the favorite resting spot of the royal guests of the palace.
Now Mariyinskiy Palace is used for ceremonial government events and the welcoming of honorable guests. The whole district can be factually called “political” – outside the park stands a whole row of some of the most important government buildings, such as the Verkhovna Rada and Cabinet of Ministers, and on nearby Bankova street the National Bank of Ukraine is situated.
On Bankova you’ll also come across another popular Kyiv building – the House with Chimeras – designed and built by the famous Ukrainian architect Vladislav Gorodetskiy. The distinctiveness of the house is in the multitudes of animals, birds, snakes, and turtles protruding out of its walls. Some connect the appearance of this first truly modernist building to the death of the architect’s daughter, others – to a tragic love affair, or a great bet, yet the facts prove a more pragmatic story – the extravagant artist simply built an unusual house for himself.
But let’s continue with our tour and go a bit farther, past Arsenalna metro station, along Park Slavy, until reaching the finishing point of today’s route – Kyivo-Pecherska Lavra. This historical complex was built in the 10th century as a cave monastery and later became one of the greatest European educational centers. You can still visit the remaining underground caves and passages.
As the monastery is Orthodox, upon entering the territory of churches and caves you should also be properly clothed – short skirts and trousers on women, and shorts on men are prohibited.
Where to eat:
Tsarske Selo (42/1 Sichnevoho Povstannya, 288-9775).
Egoist (44 Moskovska, 254-2214).
Shooters (22 Moskovska, 254-2204).
Day three: from Golden Gate to Podil
For one more sightseeing route I advise you to choose Zoloti Vorota (Golden Gate) metro station as a starting point, as there are plenty of places of interest nearby. First of all, there is Golden Gate itself, which was built in the 11th century as one of the gates into the city. Near the gates, at the corner of Yaroslaviv Val, you can see the famous House of Shtengel, or the Baron’s House, a building in Medieval style, with two monsters placed at the entrance, sharp gothic towers, and the greeting “Salve” at the entrance, which means “Welcome.” Until the 1920s it was a communal house, with a whole family living in each room. Since then the tenants have received separate flats, and the house remains empty and closed.
If you go a little bit farther along the Val, you will see another building by Gorodetskiy – the House of Actors, which was designed in Moresque style. Now let’s return to Zoloti Vorota. From there down to Khreshchatyk runs Prorizna street, where it’s pleasant to sit in a small shady square garden or drink a cup of coffee in one of its coffee houses. This area is also known as Music place, as on practically every corner there are live music bars. Between Zoloti Vorota and Prorizna is Volodymyrska street, which will lead you to the “spiritual heart” of Kyiv – Sofiyivskiy and Mykhaylivskiy cathedrals. The first one, named in honor of Sophia, which in Greek means “god’s wisdom,” is no longer a functioning cathedral, but a museum. The major building on the territory still contains old frescoes, besides Saint Sophia Cathedral provides historical and cultural information about itself and historic Kyiv in English.
Just opposite Sofiyivska Ploshcha, you’ll see Mykhaylivska Ploshcha and the Mykhaylivskiy Golden-Domed Cathedral. The cathedral is a functioning one, which is why it is always filled with people. It is also very prestigious, so it is expensive to book a wedding ceremony there, and yet there are plenty of couples eager to wed at the Cathedral. Near the cathedral sits the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, and walking past it, you’ll find yourself on Desyatynna Street.
If you head down Desyatynna, it will lead you to the Andriyivskiy Uzviz, the tourist center of the city and one of its best known attractions. At the beginning of the 20th century, when the present city center was just being formed, Andriyivskiy was situated in one of the poorest districts, and accommodated artists, writers, and students (genius author Mikhail Bulgakov lived in house No. 13 for several years, and now a museum dedicated to him is situated there). Now it’s the most prestigious place for living or renting a studio. Uzviz is also an art and souvenir market, but you should remember that almost everything is overpriced, so you should try to bargain.
Andriyivskiy Uzviz is also the location of one more famous building – the so-called Richard the Lion Heart’s house. In fact, the house has no connection to this legendary monarch and gained its reputation due to its gothic silhouette. The building is gossiped to have been unlucky from the very beginning – while it was being built the workers, dissatisfied with their payment, put egg shells inside the chimney, which produced ghostly moaning sounds during the windy nights. Maybe these are just urban legends, but the house still doesn’t have any tenants and remains empty.
Uzviz is also famous for it’s Andriyivska Church, built in airy baroque style and designed by the prominent Italian architect Rastrelli, who was in charge of the posh Russian Empire buildings. Proceeding with your walk down Uzviz and through Kontraktova Ploshcha, you will come to Sahaydachnoho street, the main promenade street of Podil. You can walk down Sahaydachnoho to Poshtova Ploshcha, where the city’s main river-boat station is situated and take the metro to whatever destination you want. Or, you can just go roaming around Podil, with its calm streets, each of which has something unique.
Where to eat:
Bukinist (8/10 Sahaydachnoho, 425-4535).
Tequila House (8A Spaska, 417-0358).
Repriza (10/5 Sahaydachnoho, 417-1908).
