LVIV, Ukraine — “I don’t do salo,” said my friend laughing as we descended a long flight of stairs leading to what is Lviv’s only salo restaurant and bar.
Yes, that’s right, salo, as in the specially cured lard that Ukrainians love to bits. It may not top the list of ideas around which to shape and mold a restaurant, but Lviv’s newly opened venture offers salo lovers culinary delights while introducing the layman to this wondrous, albeit fatty, dish.
Salo – pig fat – has been a staple of Ukrainian cuisine for time immemorial. Farmers used to wrap a thick slice into a kerchief and take it into the field for lunch. It didn’t melt under the sun and offered enough calories to keep one going through a grueling day.
Since those days of practicality, however, salo-making has become an art. To get just the right texture – melting in your mouth – farmers have lovingly fed pigs with milk and high quality grains to ensure tenderness. Pigs have also lived a life of luxury to maintain low levels of stress since that emotion hardens their fat. Which brings us back to Lviv’s Salo Vodka-Bar.
The bar is both a restaurant and museum, which has taken a modernist view of salo. Right now the focal point is the world’s largest heart made of salo and a little baby salo alien lying in a crib.
On the culinary end, the shape in which salo is presented is also an art form. Dishes come in the form of David’s great male genital, Marilyn Monroe’s lips and Venus’ breasts, among others.
Each of these dishes is enhanced with foodstuffs. For instance, one of the most popular dishes, David’s great gift, is filled with meat varenyky, pickles and cabbage. The Hr 190 dish that feeds three is popular among women. “It is hard for about 10 minutes and then begins to soften because the varenyky are hot,” our waitress said.
At least it lasts longer than the real thing, my friend and I chuckled back.
The vast majority of dishes at the bar might be too much to ingest for the average person. Most are for two or three people, and steeped in cholesterol.
Yet the bar has come up with a dish that is an introduction of sorts to salo without all the frills. This is what my friend’s husband and I had. For Hr 40, we had small slices of 12 types of salo on black bread, with a shot of vodka, beer or juice included. Nine pieces of salo are from different regions of Ukraine, while three come from Italy.
I was surprised to learn that Italians also eat salo, although theirs is much saltier than the Ukrainian and can contain large bits of prosciutto.
To that end, the bar did what it is presumably supposed to do – introduce people to salo.
The bread has to be black, our waitress said, because it enhances salo’s taste. For whatever reason, white bread just doesn’t work.
I ordered my plate with a bit of trepidation, fearful that with so many pieces of salo, I would not feel okay later. I’ve eaten salo in the past, but mostly tiny tastes just for company.
Much to my surprise, however, the salo was truly delicious. It did what it was supposed to do; in those 12 bites, I experienced not only different Ukrainian regions, but different culinary salo styles.
Some salo pieces had a bit of thickness, but were tasty nonetheless. My dish was washed down with beer, while my friend’s husband had a generous bottle of non-alcoholic beer. My friend who doesn’t do salo tasted morsels from her spouse’s plate and was impressed.
To that end, the bar did what it is presumably supposed to do – introduce people to salo. It is evident the proprietors understand that not everyone is going to eat pig fat. So they also offer a large sushi menu – dishes here are less expensive than in Kyiv – as well as Italian.
We ordered a salmon roll for Hr 38 and a samurai roll for Hr 50. From the Italian menu I ordered a mozzarella, tomato and avocado salad for Hr 47. It is one of the best I have ever had in Ukraine.
Then it was time for dessert. I have always been skeptical of salo dipped in chocolate.
So we opted for ice cream and salo in the shape of Marilyn’s lips. Comprised of 80 percent ice cream and 20 percent salo, the latter was barely noticeable. Little bits of fruit complimented the dish, and quite honestly, I would have it again.
The Salo Vodka-Bar has hit the right chord at the right time. Not only is its atmosphere playful and fun – tables are adorned with cutting boards and large magnifying glasses to read the menu – the food is good.
The personnel are patient in explaining the menu and how the salo is able to be shaped in so many interesting forms. And finally there is the bathroom which you have to see to believe: Salo in and salo out.
The Salo Vodka-Bar is centrally located on Prospect Svobody 6/8. Its menu, salo art and other interesting tidbits can be accessed at http://www.saloart.com.ua. The website is in English, Ukrainian and Russian.
Staff writer Natalia A. Feduschak can be reached at [email protected]
