One of Ukraine’s best known wine-producing regions, Crimea traces its history of viticulture as far back as to the 4th century BC.
But it was only after Prince Mikhail Vorontsov planted the first wine gardens in 1820 that the local industry took off, ultimately turning the region into the Soviet Union’s biggest wine producer.
But tradition doesn’t mean Crimea will fit everyone’s taste. The heavy, extremely sweet dessert wines may have been popular in Soviet times, when there were few alternatives. But if you’re not drinking out of nostalgia, the fortified reds that the peninsula is best known for can be difficult to chug down, particularly under a hot Crimean sun. To provide readers with tips (or perhaps warnings), the Kyiv Post staff took it upon themselves to review the region’s more prominent brands.
White semi-dry by Inkerman.
Price: Hr 35
In a land dominated by heavy reds, Inkerman’s light white wines stand apart. Based in Sevastopol, home to Russia’s Black Sea fleet, Inkerman is one of the newer arrivals on the Crimean wine scene. This may explain a lack of depth to many of their wines – which is nonetheless a relief after trying some of the cloy alternatives. Verdict: Light with a hint of fruity notes and tolerable acidity, Inkerman makes for a perfect refresher on a hot summer day.
Pino Gri by Massandra.
Price: Hr 51
Massandra is probably as Crimean as you can get, and prides itself as the region’s oldest winery. A classic tourist stop, the Massandra shop features photos of glorious patrons, including Belarusian President Alexander Lukashenko, his Russian counterpart Vladimir Putin, and post-Soviet dictator mascot Gerard Depardieu. Pino Gri is arguably one of their fruitier versions, with hints of raisins and other dried fruit. It convinced Vlad Lavrov, who said: “I like this raisin water. But it’s too sweet and strong to drink it in summer. For winter it’ll do.” Verdict: One of the more delicate and tolerable options, as dessert wines go.
White semi-sweet by Magarach.
Price: Hr 32
“Finally! This one is the best,” says Svitlana Tuchynska. Indeed, the white semi-sweet from Magarach has much more nuanced tones, combining fruity flavors with manageable amounts of sweetness. Perhaps that’s because of the research that has gone into it: Magarach, which means source or spring, first opened as a wine research institute in 1828. Since then, it seems they have been able to find the balance needed for a semi-sweet white wine. Verdict: Chilled, it’s just right for warm Crimean evenings, with some fruit on the side.
Koktebel cognac (5 stars).
Price: Hr 75
Home to the region’s best known jazz festival, Koktebel is also where one of the area’s better cognacs comes from. This resort, whose name means land of the blue hills in Tatar, is located on the eastern end of Crimea’s coastline. But the dry, sensible cognac can be found in shops all around the country. Christopher Miller approved: “Oh, it’s excellent … It’s dry, it tastes more like whiskey, which, as an American, I’m more accustomed to. I’ve had Bakhchisaray before, and it was OK for a cheap one. My favorite is Zakarpattya cognac. But I think Koktebel is winning me over, sip by sip.” Verdict: The wines are still getting there, but the cognac already offers a decent price/quality deal.
Chornyi Polkovnik by Sonyachna Dolyna.
Price: Hr 67
A must-try for any visitor to Crimea, Chornyi Polkovnik, or the black lieutenant, is also one of the most unusual flavors you’ll ever encounter in the world of wines. A syrupy dessert wine, with an almond aftertaste, it is best drunk very slowly, with lots of food, and followed with sugarless tea, according Pavel Podufalov. But Christopher Miller’s immediate reaction was: “Why is that a drink? This is something to put on your pancakes.” Verdict: Try it once, praise its unique flavor, and move on.
Novosvetskoe champagne by Novyi Svet.
Price: Hr 85
A resort town near Yalta, Novyi Svet is known for its sparkling wine since the 19th century. Well cooled, it provides a mild alternative to some of the sweeter options out there. According to Daryna Shevchenko, it’s not too sparkling, with a taste reminiscent of Asti Martini. Other palates were less enthusiastic. “It’s like my grandma’s compote with two kilos of sugar. If you like sweet stuff it’s good,” said Svitlana Tuchynska. Verdict: “The more you drink it the more you like it. No, the more you drink it, the less you care about the taste.”
Kyiv Post staff writer Olga Rudenko can be reached at rudenko@kyivpost.com.
