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BELVEDERE MARITTIMO, ITALY — A vacation in Belvedere Marittimo, a town in southern Italy, starts at the moment of arrival, with views of the Tyrrhenian Sea greeting travelers right at the train station.

Belvedere Marittimo is a coastal town in the province of Cosenza in the Calabria region, 250 kilometers south of Naples. The cozy old town, the name of which means “the beautiful view of the sea,” offers tourists uncrowded beaches, a rich history, and delicious food at moderate prices.

And even though almost none of the locals speak English, they are incredibly hospitable and always ready to help as much as they can.

An apartment with a kitchen, a bathroom and one or two bedrooms here can cost from 35 euros per night and more, depending on the season. With a population of only some 9,000 people, Belvedere Marittimo feels quite small, with everything accessible by foot.

The town’s pebble beach stretches for some two kilometers, and is divided into private and public zones, although access to the clean and picture-perfect sea is available all along the town’s seafront. The gently shelving main beach offers good safe swimming and on part of the main beach, and on the northern part of the coast, artificial sea barriers made from piles of rocks protect the beaches from coastal erosion.

To rent a sunbed and an umbrella for a day at a private beach costs 12–20 euros. Such venues also offer a WC, a shower and have a beach bar that usually cooperates with some local restaurants, offering diverse lunch options during daylight hours.

However, the private beaches are usually half-empty, with most people staying at the free public ones, bringing their own umbrellas, which can be bought at one of the local stores.

Belvedere Marittimo also has a food and a clothes market, enotecas (local wine bars), meat, cheese, grocery and fruit stores, a bank, a drugs store, as well as numerous cafes, pizzerias, and restaurants. There are also several shopping malls in the town.

Beware though: almost everything closes down for the siesta hours, with only patisseries and gelaterias (ice-cream parlors) working from around 2–6 p. m. “Around,” because there are no working hours mentioned at any of the venues in Belvedere Marittimo.

Italian gelato, or ice-cream, is worth a separate mention — every cafe has at least 10 flavors on offer, and real Italian ice-cream is a must try even for those without a sweet tooth.

Historical heritage

After several days of sunbathing and swimming, the desire to go exploring might kick in, and the town has lots to show.

While the newer part of the town is located near the sea, Belvedere Marittimo also has an old quarter — up on a hill. Climbing there, visitors can see medieval-era houses, walk along narrow streets, and enjoy a breathtaking view of the sea and mountains.

One of the cultural sites is the local castle, which was built in 11th century. There is also the Capuchin Convent, dedicated to saint San Daniele, who was born in Belvedere Marittimo in the late 12th century, beheaded in Morocco in 1227, and canonized in 1616 by Pope Leo X.

The convent also preserves some of the relics of Saint Valentine, the famous patron saint of lovers. This is why some call Belvedere Marittimo the town of love, with many couples coming here to proclaim their love to each other, get married, or to celebrate St. Valentine’s day on Feb. 14.

A glass of local wine at one of the bars in the old town is the perfect compliment to the experience: Calabria, which Belvedere Marittimo is a part of, is a famous Italian wine-producing region. Local wines for any taste and budget can be also found here in every store.

Make sure to have a dictionary or a translator installed on a phone, since all menus and tourist information is in Italian, and practically none of the staff at the local restaurants and stores speak even basic English. However, as soon as you let out a grateful “Grazie,” they will do whatever it takes to help you. And in most cases, a smile is enough as well.