October is perhaps the most important month for fashion magazines to flash out new haute-couture collections, which most of us won’t buy, but will certainly take into account planning this rainy season’s wardrobe. Judging from fabric and style selections presented in Paris and Milan six months ago, the 1960s is back in fashion. Furs, maxi skirts, snake prints and leather suits are currently in high demand.
To get through a cold winter, you are now justified to buy once a big no-no: colorful fur jackets or glossy black fur coats, with fur sleeves or fur collars – the style makes no difference, the fur is on fire today.
Designer Alexander McQueen suggested white coats with rich fur decoration while French fashion house Celine presented colorful coats – loony and sophisticated at the same time. And designers of the Italian label Marni, apart from coats, managed to squeeze in furs on the gloves’ fringes. There are no rules with furs this season: somehow designers managed to mix unexpected sets and still convey a posh look.
Fur outfits in Miu Miu, Etro and Alexander McQueen Fall 2011 collections (style.com)
For some shoppers, however, furs – natural or fake – remain a contentious material. Vintage-like coats in the 60’s style rule the world once again this season with coats and blazers retreating to the back stage until better times. Look for geometric cuts and warm colors as you are shopping for that new old coat. Modern American sitcom “Mad men” about a prestigious advertising business in the 1960’s may pitch more fashion ideas. Some fashion critics believe that the show’s massive and long-lasting success, since it was first aired in 2007, played a huge role in the comeback of retro.
Celine, Alberta Feretti and Bottega Venetta are into 60’s (style.com)
It seems that long skirts, having been in style for several seasons already, aren’t getting any shorter this fall. Almost every noted designer bet on maxi trend in their fall-winter collections.
But not any long skirt will rock the party. Losing some curves, skirts – some with high waist – are now fitted to shape for a sexy smart look. Moreover, the last season’s trend of matching baggy sweaters with long skirts has been replaced with simple tops.
When it comes to fabrics, don’t rule out chiffon, silk or light jersey. They will go well under almost any overcoat, including a maxi-coat – another hot trend of the season. So, don’t hesitate and play along.
Maxi trend in BCBG Max Azria, Marc Jacobs and Christian Dior works (style.com)
One tricky trend is a snake print as it can easily cheapen one’s look if used incorrectly. Prada, Missoni and Chloe have all offered a reptile look, putting snake prints on coats, blazers and even chiffon dresses.
Chloe, Prada and Missoni: snake it up (style.com)
Glamorous fetish is another tricky style, which one should use sparingly. High bondage boots and tight leather and chiffon tops and skirts brim with naughty black gloss. Add a whip to that and you will only be allowed to clubs on a Halloween night.
Mostly inspired by Alexander McQueen works, fetish garments swept the market with the speed of the lighting. While some scold this allusion to porn, others, including Lady Gaga and Kate Moss, willingly embrace it.
Alexander McQueen, Givenchy and Balenciaga want you to take a risk and go into fetish style (style.com)
Another toasty trend of the season is collage, which means you can mix a yellow-green stripy sweater with a tartan skirt. This look of course is for advanced fashionistas, who can match colors and patterns with their eyes closed. And don’t forget to wear an ultra-glamorous pair of boots with very high legs.
Colorfull collages by Chloe, Celine and Marni (style.com)
And no matter how tough it may sound for Ukrainian women, spiky heels are a crime against fashion this season. Wedges and wide heels rule the scene today.
Even though men’s fashion seems to live its own life, it is somewhat influenced by women’s trends this autumn and winter. German designer Karl Lagerfeld, wearing the most classical suit himself, is at the same time the biggest fur lobbyist amongst male designers. He suggested that Chanel men should wear fur suits of natural colors, making his models look like yetis on catwalk last spring. Still, his own label (Lagerfeld) is rather conservative and has black coats with fur collars. As to the 60’s, jackets and coats became double-breasted once again. Suede desert boots of mild green or brown shades will complete the look.
Tricky is the word of this season. Get a weird fur coat, make the best collage look or kick off an Audrey Hepburn with your own 60’s dress. Time to play safe is over, now is the time to make a fashion statement.
Kyiv Post staff writer Olga Rudenko can be reached at rudenko@kyivpost.com
