There are three morning buses from Lviv, the largest city in western Ukraine, to Przemyśl, a nearby Polish city. But the ticket seller warns us that the last one may not operate today, so we take the earliest one. The bus is shabby and the passengers seem to know each other. Thirteen of forty seats are occupied. All of the eyes are glued on me and my colleagues, strangers from Kyiv, who nobody knows. After about two hours, we arrive at Mostyska, a small town on the Ukrainian side next to the Polish-Ukrainian border post of Shehyni-Medyka.

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